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1000w rms on stock alt


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jcassonjr 
Member - Posts: 41
Member spacespace
Joined: April 21, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: May 18, 2005 at 10:47 AM / IP Logged  
I have a stock 98 z-24 cavalier witrh a 105 amp alternator. My system will pull around 70 amps on a bass mix cd with long drawn out low tones but will only pull about 20 - 25 amps on a faster beat with higher frequinces before my subs beginb to clip. have low pass set at 71hz. I run a 4ga power wire with 150 amp anl fuse. I also have a 9855 alpine deck with 4 volt pre outs. The stereo shop salesmen said he thought it was a current issue. Would an optima deep cycle battery make a large difference. Should i get a higher output alt. I am on a limited budget and want do know what would make the biggest differnce.
Alpine cda-9855
Alpine Mrd-m1000
1 farad digital Rockford cap
2 Treo SSi 12's
Large centerport box
skoldspuppy 
Silver - Posts: 342
Silver spacespace
Joined: July 11, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: May 18, 2005 at 11:42 AM / IP Logged  

First do you have your BIG 3 Wiring done?, if not do so.. learn more about it here http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=007801  you can do the big three for less than $30 and an hour of your time

A deep cycle will really only help when your running your system with the car off, both of my cars have then just for the hell of it.. its not much more than a regualr battery

A HO Alternator would ideally be the best for your situation, but try the the first 2 and see if it makes any difference what so ever, it certainly wont harm anything

2004 Honda Civic Ex 4Dr
Kenwood DDX-7015/W Nav
4 Fosgate T152C
Hifonics Brutus BX1500D
RE XXX 12 in a 4 Cube Snail Shell
Ballerinstaller 
Copper - Posts: 58
Copper spacespace
Joined: May 18, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: May 18, 2005 at 7:29 PM / IP Logged  

After using three deep cycle batteries ranging from the basic 120 minute reserve Diehard deep cycle to an interstate 1200 amp deep cycle endloader style battery, I have not been too happy with the results.  Secondly, the longest any deep cycle battery has lasted has been about two years. 

After thinking of trying something new, I bought I Optima red top and installed it in my trunk in June, 1997.  The same month I replaced my hood battery with a Champion 72 month battery.  In May of 2002 I tested both batteries again on a Sun Tune battery checker and the little printout told me a story I am not about to forget. 

The Champion had 35% capacity left whilst the Optima had 95% capacity left and that was after I charged each battery for 30 minutes prior to the test. 

     After owning a chevy product with the same alternator, I had to replace four of them during my ownership of the car.  Get a larger alternator, preferrably a 150 amp kit that can be purchased from Summit Performance.  This kit modifies your current alternator by replacing the bell housing, regulator, ball bearing, and rectifier diodes.  One of my friends found a modified one at the junk yard and that was the last alternator I ever bought before I sold the car.

  Presently two different cars later, I still have the same Optima Red top in my trunk and a yellow top under the hood.  Combined with a 125 amp  stock alternator and a 1 farad cap, my system can barely sustain 1000 watts. 

Pioneer Avic-N1
Clarion 300 watt 4 channel amp
PPI PC21400 1400 watt amp
2x JL 12 inch w7's
Polk EX series in factory locations
2000 Impala LS
Baller Installer - Pete D.
TruckSystem 
Copper - Posts: 185
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 18, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: May 19, 2005 at 8:32 AM / IP Logged  
I still have my stock alternator and run about 1000wrms from two amps and have no problems at all, no dimming or anything. I don't much in the way of power accessories however, so that may be helping somewhat.
2003 Chevrolet Silverado Standard Cab ~ Alpine CDA-9851
Diamond Audio D3600.1 ~ 2x Diamond Audio TM310D4
Diamond Audio D3400.4 ~ Diamond Audio Hex S600s
AstroStart RS5204 Remote Start/Alarm
Master Asylum 
Silver - Posts: 400
Silver spacespace
Joined: November 05, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: May 19, 2005 at 9:53 AM / IP Logged  

Though the red top would work better starting your car, since that is what it was designed for, and the yellow would be a more sufficient storage battery, and you have 125 stock alternator; you might wanna get it all checked out.

I'm running a standard starter battery, can't even remember the brand; a yellow top in trunk, 105 amp alternator(aftermarket but not the 180 amp it should have been.) I installed a volt gauge to watch my electrical just in case, no dimming short of idle. I've got 1300wRMS and I play it at like 50/80 volume consistently which is pretty f'ing loud. I have no problems, at all.

I'd have the electrical looked at if you can't hold up 1000w.... Esp if that isn't RMS. :)

Upgrade the wiring in the hood. If still a problem, upgrade alternator. I really doubt it should be a problem though.

1998 Monte Carlo w/
Eclipse CD8454
2xRockford 5.25" Power 2-way T152C
2xRockford 6"x9" Punch 3-way FRC4369
1xMemphis 16-MCH1300 5-channel
2xKicker 12" L5 Solobaric-2 Ohm
Ballerinstaller 
Copper - Posts: 58
Copper spacespace
Joined: May 18, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: May 19, 2005 at 11:04 AM / IP Logged  
I already doubled up my grounds and alternator wires and I have two (2) 2 gauge wires routed to my trunk. I had the same problem with my last two chevys. Having a 1400 watt amp and a 300 watt four channel just draws too much current! The PPI 1400 watt can draw in excess of 220 amps and the Clarion 4 channel has two 40 amp fuses. I have no doubt that the only reason I am still driving my car is because of my second battery.
     I ran that yellow top through the same sunn tune tester that the red top did and I have no doubt that I made the right choice for a starting battery, although its designer did label it as a deep cycle / starting battery. After reading the labels on both batteries, the red top indicates 800 cranking amps and the yellow top indicates 870 cranking amps. That's why I decided to put the yellow top under the hood. Also considering that the red top is 8 years old and still going strong, I really don't want to trust an aged battery starting my car.
     The voltage meter in my passport 8500 and in my AVIC-N1 and on my capacitor in the trunk confirm that everything is **perfect** and on no load my voltages idle at 14.4 volts. on a cold day they can be as high as 14.8 volts. If I hammer away like with some beastie boys or some latin techno, I can see my voltages plummet to less than 10 volts. I have to hammer for about 5 minutes before this happpens though. I have already looked up a problem solver alternator for my car, but I have to modify the mounting bracket and the cost of a alternator that only puts out 25 more amps for a total of 150 amps is not worth the $300 they want for it. Maybe there is another alternator available for my 2000 Impala LS that can fit in its stock location? Any Ideas?
Pioneer Avic-N1
Clarion 300 watt 4 channel amp
PPI PC21400 1400 watt amp
2x JL 12 inch w7's
Polk EX series in factory locations
2000 Impala LS
Baller Installer - Pete D.
jcassonjr 
Member - Posts: 41
Member spacespace
Joined: April 21, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: May 20, 2005 at 6:17 PM / IP Logged  
so long story short my 105 amp alt should be able to power my car and the 90amps my alpine mrd-m1000 should be pulling. Also id the any thing that could cause my amp not to pull current fast enough.
Alpine cda-9855
Alpine Mrd-m1000
1 farad digital Rockford cap
2 Treo SSi 12's
Large centerport box

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