RSX3.5, '92 Nissan 240sx

Hi folks,

  I have a Clifford RSX3.5 system I will be installing next weekend. I'm just gathering some specefic info I'm not 100% sure on. I'm comfortable with electronics and all, but I'm not sure about wiring up the keyless entry. The Clifford unit has three keyless outputs: +Lock/-UL, -Lock/+UL, and -UL. The pulse durration for lock is 0.8seconds, and 1second for unlock. After playing with the control wire in the door panel(D/S), I think I have the signal figured out that I need: if I connect the two control wires together(one has 12V on it to GND), the doors unlock... if I let them both open, they lock.

The problem I forsee is the Clifford only pulses the locks... if the Clifford pulses ground to unlock them, won't they just lock again once the pulse has ended?? It seemed I had to hold the control connection together for about 1-2seconds, to get a solid unlock. If then I disconnected them, they locked. If I tried to quickly pulse them, the actuators didn't act predictably. When waiting for 1-2seconds, I could hear the timer click on the passenger side: meaning that if I were then to unshort the wires, I would get a definate lock.

I hope this makes sense. I'm just wondering if I should get a latching relay. Or is this why the lock/UL 'feedback' switch in the actuator is kept?

Thanks for reading!

Not to be rude, but did you even read my original post? Your reply had nothing to do with my question.

One wire lock system....wire a relay as follows Cut the lock wire in half....then

87a, gets the module side of the lock wire. 30 gets the door side of the lock wire. 86 gets 12v, 85 gets the negative triggers for LOCK from the unit. Attach the UNLOCK out put to the wire going to 87a "before the relay".

Yeah I got it all installed this weekend. I was just over-analyzing the lock situation: I didn't see how the locks could remain locked if they were pulsed, then returned to open. Basically I wired them with the diagram on this site, specific to 240sx's: your description minus a diode.

Anyways, it took me from Friday around 5pm, to tonight around 5pm, roughly 25hrs. This was for remote start, keyless entry, alarm, and I havn't finished installing the trunk release actuator yet(have to fab a bracket). I must say, I'v gotta hand it to your guys/gals who do this for a living: this was *not* an easy task! The electronics are simple, but the planning, grouping/routing of wires, wire looming/wrapping, wow. I spent almost a day and a half just getting the wires where I wanted them, before shortening. I expect you guys have good health insurance, b/c my back is killing me!

Thanks for the help, and being patient w/me.

-Jamie

Hi there,

      I finally finished up installing the main components of an RSX3.5 into a '92 Nissan 240sx this weekend. As I mentioned in another post, I have a new-found respect for you installers-by-day out there: this took much longer than expected. Anyways, it's all in, and everything seems to be working(sorta).

    First let me start with a general question about the dual-stage shock sensor. I mounted it behind my radio, wire-tied to a dash harness(not the radio one, this was about 1" in diameter). I was told to avoid attaching it to any [chassis]metal to prevent falses. However it seems that the thing isnt sensitive enough. I have it turned all the way up(clock-wise), and I really have to wrap on the car to get a response: which is the full shock alarm, not even the warn-away. I mean I can literally rock the car side to side w/out a trigger. If I push up/down on the front end, it goes off. The sensor wire is already loomed but I can move it about the vicinity. There tranny tunnel is covered in carpet, the HVAC box is behind it(plastic), and the radio bracket is metal. Is this normal for the 'in-box' sensor? I was expecting it to by overly sensitive.

    Next, I *think* I may have goofed up on my remote start: I wired my cold-start wire to the IGN2/ACC2 output... is the IGN2 when the car is in run only? Reason is it cranks and cranks and cranks when it's cold, but when warm it fires right up. Is it OK to just tap this cold start directly off the starter-out on the 'relay sattelite'?

   Impressions? Well I havn't had a ton of time to test it out, but first impressions are good. The remote has good indoor range: I can communication from my garage, to the other side of the house, on the second floor, from the bedroom. The remote itself is built very sturdy: the stubby antannae looks like it will hold up to some abuse. And it's certainly smaller 'in person'.

That's all for now, thanks for reading. I'm sure I'll have some more questions the longer I get to use this.

-Slip