RSX3.5, '92 Nissan 240sx

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profuse007

Gold - Posts: 2,015

Joined: October 20, 2002

Location: Texas, United States

Posted: May 30, 2005 at 12:38 AM / IP Logged

yes, knowing how to test and tap wire is one thing, but the most important thing about installing alarm is to know ahead of time and make wise decision on ohw to run wires to its patch. if an installation w/o organization is just obsolete when you have wires running everywhere.

good job

slipnfall wrote:

Anyways, it took me from Friday around 5pm, to tonight around 5pm, roughly 25hrs. This was for remote start, keyless entry, alarm, and I havn't finished installing the trunk release actuator yet(have to fab a bracket). I must say, I'v gotta hand it to your guys/gals who do this for a living: this was *not* an easy task! The electronics are simple, but the planning, grouping/routing of wires, wire looming/wrapping, wow. I spent almost a day and a half just getting the wires where I wanted them, before shortening. I expect you guys have good health insurance, b/c my back is killing me!

Thanks for the help, and being patient w/me.

-Jamie

Houston,TX

"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).

cosmoworks

Copper - Posts: 144

Joined: June 02, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: May 31, 2005 at 10:48 AM / IP Logged

Use a relay to power up your car's second starter signal wire, because like you thought the IGN2 is only on when the car is running (not starting)

Hook up as follows:

- 87 to car's cold start wire

- 30 and 85 to car's main start wire

- 86 to ground

Plus you don't want to constantly power the cold-start wire, since it tells the ECU to fire injectors simultaneously instead of sequentially.

slipnfall

Member - Posts: 36

Joined: July 11, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: June 01, 2005 at 6:32 AM / IP Logged

Oh bummer. Glad that there's a resolution though. Would it be OK to wire the cold start directly to the starter out? The supply wire is the same, so I don't think excessive current draw would be a problem. It might sound like I'm just being lazy, but I have all my ign wires tucked behind the gauges, so I'd hate to put a relay under the dash for the ignition. Plus there's like 0 room to mount the sucker to(I had to zip-tie my door lock relay to a harness by the fuse box!). Another thing, where can I find the brackets that are included in a door lock actuator kit?? They look like an erector set beam. :-) Is there a name for these, something similar that's found at a hardware store? I had to ziptie the actuator in my trunk to the stock release cable, b/c the inner trunk wall is the outer also(no where to put a bolt through)

Also, does the remote relay sattellite act as the starter kill relay? The Clifford install manual is a little unclear on this.

Thanks,

-Jamie

cosmoworks

Copper - Posts: 144

Joined: June 02, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: June 01, 2005 at 2:45 PM / IP Logged

Put the relay in. The cold-start wire doesn't really need any current (it's just a sense wire to the ECU), however you still need the relay to isolate the cold start and start wires when not in the starting key position.

The strap from generic door-lock actuators is just the same as any radio backstrap. Any stereo shop should have tons laying around that they'll sell/give you. Closest thing I've seen to that in a hardware store is plumbers tape (water-heater strap), but it might be too think to work.

slipnfall

Member - Posts: 36

Joined: July 11, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: June 01, 2005 at 3:07 PM / IP Logged

cosmoworks wrote:

however you still need the relay to isolate the cold start and start wires when not in the starting key position.

Ok well since it's just a signal wire I won't have to worry about another high current wire under my dash. Wouldn't the cold start wire disconnect once the car is started(and out of the START position) anyways? Why is it necessary to isolate this further? I'm not contesting you, I'm curious.

Thanks for clearing that up: I thought the cold start directly powered the fuel pump/injectors to prime 'extra' durring cold start. It makes better sense that it's a signal wire to the ECU.

cosmoworks

Copper - Posts: 144

Joined: June 02, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: June 02, 2005 at 10:37 AM / IP Logged

You still see a voltage reference (+0 volts, or ground) from the start wire even when not in starting position. My guess is that the cold-start wire needs to be floating rather than grounded when not starting, but that's only my guess as to why Nissan isolates them from the factory.

Your injectors are fed positive +12 from the key powered ign source, and injector grounds are fed via pulses from the ECU. That's why the cold-start wire is just a signal to the ECU - it tells the ECU that you're starting, so that it can fire injectors simultaneously during the starting process.

slipnfall

Member - Posts: 36

Joined: July 11, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: June 02, 2005 at 10:57 AM / IP Logged

Thanks for the response. I wired up a relay last night and it works great now! Fires right up. I just used the starter output to power both the relay and #30 contact. Snipped the 2nd IGN wire, and provided the cold start wire with the NO contact from the relay. I measured the max current draw on the cold start, and it's only 50mA. Nissan must leave the cold start floating durring normal use: there's no type of harness ground wire on the ignition column(or ground wire on the ign switch).

Kudos. -Jamie.

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RSX3.5, '92 Nissan 240sx

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