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2002 Explorer XLT, remote starter


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dfrancis 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: May 23, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: May 29, 2005 at 12:50 PM / IP Logged  

K ran into a slight problem. It's all in and works, but....

If I lock the car using the Viper remote, then sit inside and open the door, the alarm does not go off. If I lock using the factory remote and repeat, the alarm sounds. Using either, I still see the theft warning light blinking as if the system was armed. I have not used the disarm wire, yet the car still starts remotely? I read that I need to arm the system by using the door trigger, what does this do, where do I power it from, constant V or just a pulse? So close to having this sucker done and dusted now.

dfrancis 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: May 23, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: May 29, 2005 at 5:01 PM / IP Logged  

Hmmm, confused now.

I used the door trigger to tie in the dome light relay(as directed on ever diagram I can find) that all works fine.

I'm just concerned now that I can lock the car and remote start even after waiting 10-15 minutes, without needing to use the disarm function? The car has an alarm, I did mange to set it off,also has the pin switch under the hood on the left side. So what gives? why can I A)start the car without disarming the factory alarm, and B)the alarm does not arm if the viper remote is used.

One other strange thing is, I was told I would need to use the GEM wakeup circuit, but I don't? the car unlocks every time on the new remote, regardless of how long it's been sitting,any idea's? is it tied in with this alarm problem maybe

KarTuneMan 
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Joined: December 14, 2004
Location: Isle Of Man
Posted: May 29, 2005 at 5:26 PM / IP Logged  

You should use the factory disarm wire with the unlock, or pulse it before "unlock" GREEN/ Purple (-)NEG low in the kick. Actually easier to get in the running board area

To lock and arm use the red and the yellow wires in the same location...low in the kick. Diode isolate trigger at the same time both wires. If you do both like I stated...you will have NO problem. Then you can put the factory remote in a drawer some where!!!

KarTuneMan 
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Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: December 14, 2004
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Posted: May 29, 2005 at 5:48 PM / IP Logged  
I did some reading on the viper you have (I hate em) and I believe you need to use the H2/4 wire to disarm your factory security USE A RELAY. As it says in the manual, this wire pulses negative when the unlock button or remote start button is pushed. Lock and arm are as I described in my last post!!!
dfrancis 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: May 23, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: May 29, 2005 at 8:10 PM / IP Logged  

Sorry to be a pain karTuneMan, there are two GREEN/ purple wires(different shade of purple) does this wire goto the door itself?That way I could prolly find it.

Also, for the arming, you say use the red and yellow, and diode isolate the trigger? what do I need to do to those two wires? Any chance of a cigarette pack drawing,lol?

Once this is done, would I then need to use the GEM wake up? as right now, it seems as though everything is staying awake.

dfrancis 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: May 23, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: May 29, 2005 at 10:34 PM / IP Logged  
one other thing, the manual/instructions are pretty vaue on what each function does, the vallet mode, what's it do? with the system in vallet mode I can still remote start the car, lock/unlock it seems to not do anything? I figured that when the car goes in for service, I will just flick the toggle switch which does stop the car from starting remotely.
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