How do I bi-amp componets?

Heh guys:

So I've noticed audiophiles always talk about bi-amping componets...  This means discretly running each componet from a seperate channel of the amp w/o a crossover?

What are some of the advantages of doing it this way instead of through a crossover?  Right now i'm running a JL Audio e6450... a 6 channel amp (45x6, 90x6, 150x3) and I have the front 4-channels bridged to a pair of CDT Audio componets...  150-watts to each side.  How would I go about discretely amping each componet? Typically, what is used to filter output? How would I go about bi-amping a pair of midbasses and a pair of tweeters from this amp?  Would it even be desirable?

Ah hamfist....  asking *moi* for specific questions?

1-Headroom - Here you refer to absolute SPL?

"additional active crossovers" - okay, my understanding of an 'active' crossover is one, in the signal path, that provides output.. say, the xover on the amp or the xover on the HU.  a 'passive' crossover is one that sits in the signal path and just cuts off something.. an external crossover or a bass-blocker or whatever. 

So in this case "additional active crossovers" is a signal processor?  My interest in this goes exactly as far as I need to move the crossovers in my car due to a horrible installation accident that I really don't wanna discuss here.... I'd really rather ditch them completely..  and I have this 6-channel amp..  soo. 

Yea my most specific question goes like this:  I wanna try bi-amping a set of JL Audio VR series midbasses with a set of CDT Audio 1" silk dome tweeters from the first 4 channels of a JL Audio e6450 b/c I think it would be really fun to do it.    So tell me everything you possibly can about that.

http://www.jlaudio.com/amps/e6450.html

I want to add what I believe are the largest positives and negatives to this endeavor.

Positive:  If pulled off, an incredible sounding system that is much better than the passive crossovers.  They will now be tuned to your vehicle and your personal tastes.

Negative:  It is extremely difficult to pull off without expensive test equipment, a good ear, and some pretty extensive knowledge.

Sedate; from what I've seen of you I believe you could pull it iff.  You seem to be very bright, and have the drive to pursue this to it's end.  Plus with people like Haemphyst helping you, I think the odds are greatly in your favor.  I will try to help you if I can as well.

What I recommend is that you pick up a good processor with a parametric EQ and crossover.  You will want something that will offer quite a bit of flexibility so you don't have to "settle".

Steven Kephart

Adire Audio

"sedate; from what I've seen of you I believe you could pull it iff.  You seem to be very bright, and have the drive to pursue this to it's end."

<---  pulls at collar sheepishly>  Yea really Steven thanks for the vote!

"It is extremely difficult to pull off without expensive test equipment, a good ear, and some pretty extensive knowledge."

Now this may be naive brash talking, but (and just maybe u and hamfist can relate), after reading what u and hamfist say... it sounds like this is the way to get my front end sounding the way *I* want.  I'm always screwing off with the top end cuz *every* comp set I buy sounds screechy to me outta the box.  I dunno why.  Once I eq-out that high-end, then I get into the nitty-gritty like midbass-response, detail... etc., etc.

Once again I find myself cursing my decision to pick up the cheapo, high-current JL stuff instead of the orgasmic "Slash" series... =/    

Of course, never to be deterred, what would u guys look at in say.. the $100 - $300 range?  That I might be able to cough up here in the next few weeks.. (one thing I truly love about this country... no matter how sticky the freedom/security situation can ever get.. obtaining *stuff* will only ever require a signature and a smile... money isn't even real anymore... )  I get the impression to do this properly would require active crossing.. anything I add after the amp would be a static cross and from what Steven said to do this properly would *require* active adjustability... and I've been looking for an excuse to get an proper eq..  

So whatchu guys think?  I can't dump that kinda cash on a bonkers signal processor right now so I ought stick with passive xovers and wait for a brighter day?  Or can u guys recommend something a wee bit more not <more than my rent> and then we can take a stab at this?  What ever you recommend it will be installed in my trunk, so looks/c**kpit adjustablility is not the deciding factor here...  functionality and *price* is.  Of course, anything that would be movable to a nice 2xDIN opening in a new car that might complement.. say.. an Alpine CDA-9833 would of course be... welcome.

Cheers guys thanks for the help.