1991 ford explorer / keyless entry

** With OEM Keyless Entry--- Negative Pulse Door Locks

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5 Wire Alternating 12 Volts Positive Door Locks

Like the configuration above, the switch, when moved in either direction, applies both power and ground directly to motor legs  without the use of any relays. Except, at the switch in this case, both motor legs rest at ground . Therefore it is only necessary to change the polarity of one motor leg to lock or unlock the vehicle.

1991 Ford Explorer 4X4

I have the system installed and all wires connected.  Originally I posted that upon connecting the battery, the wires burned through the insulation.  Well, I installed a fused wire between my 12 V power source and the relays...Now when I connect the battery, the fuse blows.  I tried reversing the switch / motor wires, but still blew the fuse.  The relay system I setup is for the 5 Wire Alternating 12 Volts Positive Door Locks.  When reading the instruction manual, there is a note on the front that says "This unit is intended for installation in vehicles with 12 volt negative ground electrical systems only."  I'm not too sure what that means, is that possibly my problem?  Also, I did not connect the orange wire in the harness which controls the "ground when armed output)...It says "this wire provides a 300mA ground output when the keyless entry is locked to control the optional starter inhibit relay."  Is this wire necessary if I don't want the starter inhibit.  It requires another relay and to be connected to the low current start solenoid wire and +12V Ign./Crank.  What am I doing wrong?  By the way, I am using 12 gauge wire for all connection and a 30 amp fuse in the fused line from the power source to the relays.  Even when the fuse blows, I can hear the relays clicking and the keyless entry brain clicking, but the power lock button does nothing.  HELP!

Back to 1st things 1st:

Im sorry to be a nuisance...

I pulled the switch at the door lock and see several wires, including the ones I cut in half at the driver's kickpanel for the lock/unlock.  Can you explain or provide a link to instructions on verifying in the locks are negative or positive lock/unlock?  When using the DMM to test for postive DC voltage, where and how do I probe the wires and also the same for testing for continuity to ground?  Do I activate the lock / unlock to get the reading or do I measure it at rest?  Thanks, and sorry once again!

The two wires that connect to pins 85 and 86 on your relay from your alarm may need to be diode isolated depending on your keyless entry system.  Some systems do not just provide power or ground, for instance, on autopage systems the green wire will provide power in the unlock mode, and ground in the lock mode.  This would cause your fuse to blow when you pressed the unlock button on your remote.

if you need info on how to diode isolate them give me an e-mail

bigblackbronco@hotmail.com

Never had a problem  connecting relays without diodes with any alarm and we are authorized autopage dealers.

The relay will pulse with either the + or - depending on how u hooked up the relay.  The other pulse will just leave the relay dormant.