What do you think of this setup

hope i am not stepping on any toes but ,,,  speaking from a nightmare experience with a mazda 6 i would not upgrade until i could replace the head or at least have jl audio cleansweep installed between the head and the amps but  with all the delay of getting the product out i have started have doubt it can do anything with the factory heads in a mazda.  what type of device do you plan to have between the head and the amp?  i have tried PAC sni-35s and now have a audiocontrol EQS 6 channel equalizer .  it sounds so bad i leave the car in the garage and drive a 94 olds to work.

one quesion , why has the idea  of all the sound coming from the front drivers become the norm , i hear that people like to simulate the concert experience .  why not be on stage?  for about a month the system in my 6 gave me that feeling , it  was like i was one of the band members, the installer called it center stage when i picked it up .  I have heard great systems with every thing setup to drive the fronts and it just doesn't compare.  I would upgrade the rears when the time comes.

Just remember that you need the proper interface adaptor for this vehicle. It will make or break what comes after it. If you have the 4 channel amp, throw it on those rear speakers. I happen to like rear fill and in this car it sounds good as well. Need more info on this car, hit me up any time.

Right now I have it amping the rears...Im going to leave them stock and I will move the mids to the back when I upgrade again to the KPs.  I asked the installer if he would consider my car a pain to work on and he said yes, better him than me.   I sat and listened to Hotel California (Live) before the install and then after to see the change...  then I switched to hard hitting country song and umm, next step is to definantly get some dynamat in there...and of course do a battery and alternator upgrade, because the lights are dimming a little while Im driving...

I know the sound isnt quite perfect yet(like I said I already have upgrades planned), I still have a little amp tweaking to do as well, but they were all pretty impressed

tefkab what did you put in your 6? And Rob shouldnt you be working...

I am glad it worked out for you.  The installers said the same thing about my car,  not easy to work on and the factory was trying to put them out of business.   This was the first time i ever had after market equipment and its been an eye opener.

for the first install i asked if they could improve the factory sound without breaking the bank . they did do the dynamat, said mb quart rce 216's would work in the front, nx87 boston acoustics in the rear doors driven by an alpine mrp f240 40w X4.  they split the signal to the rears and added a small 10 inch jl audio sub with a mrv t320 110w x2.  they used the pac sni-35 to drop the voltage from the head to the amps. $2000.00  Sounded real bad and i should have had it all pulled but worried i would have a few more scratches to the dash and outside,  so i took it to a person that claims he is  #1 in the state of MA.  he pulled the alpine amp and installed jl audio e6450 6 x 45w and a e1400d to drive the sub,  feeds the sub with one channel from the front and one from the rear.  the only other thing he added was two alpine soft dome tweeters because he told me the mb quarts were fried and he added remote volume control for the sub.   $3000.00    .  this sounded so incredible i would drive around rotary's to hear the whole track before pulling in the driveway but after about a month it changed and sounded like the first install.  out of sync, harsh, hollow,  like listening to a radio in an empty room.  when i took it back he said it didn't change , my hearing did .  now how do i prove that.   didn't want more damage to the car

i brought the car to a 3rd installer and he wanted to change the LOC's but saw what they were and only charged me to turn down the gain on the rear drivers. $50.00  I was able to have the car looked at for free at a school for installers where they recommend i have an EQS installed after doing an RTA  which would also solve the issue of voltage to the amps.  the LOC's were only putting out one volt.. A 4th installer pulled the LOC's , one would get real hot , installed the  EQS $500.00.   now i have an audiocontrol EQS 6 channel pre-amp that i am not able to adjust according to the directions supplied.  the idiot lights will not operate as stated , i must have even less voltage coming out of this to drive the amps.  i lost volume, it never changed the sound , actually made it worse. 

someone should make an amp mounting kit.  they installed the amps on the back of my rear seats and they were attached to fabric on most of the mounting holes.

this all happen 1 year ago.  i am waiting for either the metra dash kit or the jl audio cleansweep.  which ever comes first. 

i have only taken the car out 5 times since january because i can't stand listening to the system.

I am still working on mine, it is hard to keep buried on a project car and do normal business at the same time when you are a small but dedicated shop like mine.

tekfab35, Do not use the cleansweep and I would not recommend the EQS for this vehicle at this time. The proper inteface to use for the LOC if you have the Bose system stock is the 6XS. If it is the non bose, then use the LC6. Only add the EQS if it is determined by your ears that SQ is no good and it is used to solve an identified problem. As it sits right now, to me it sounds like it is not installed correctly.

Metra will not be making a dash kit for this vehicle from what I have heard but if you want to send me yours...... I can get a little creative with it. Have pics if you need them. Here is a little something on why I would not recommend the cleanweep. This quote comes from Tim Ballie, a former IASCA World Champion who just happens to be in my neck of the woods.

The cleansweep allows you to auto EQ the car so that the output is a full range non boost signal (cool feature), however you can no longer use the factory volume control or that feature is useless (not cool) you now have to use the supplied external volume knob which is not exactly going to look good in most new cars (not cool), it only has front and rear outputs that require front and rear inputs to work (not so cool) it doesn't allow for summing of channels (not cool), it has no sub out (not cool) but it has a AUX in (cool) The US retail is $499 which will probably be at least $599-$799 CDN retail.