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shaving door handels


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abovestock 
Copper - Posts: 247
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 08, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: June 22, 2005 at 2:10 PM / IP Logged  
In many other cars including my own, I use auto lock 60 lbs. selonoids with dust boots to keep water out. Never failed yet(knock on wood).
01 Suburban LS 
Member - Posts: 43
Member spacespace
Joined: September 26, 2003
Location: California, United States
Posted: June 29, 2005 at 11:10 PM / IP Logged  
We used this product on our Saturn
Dynatron epoxy
I cut out the pockets for the door handles, riveted a plastic backing plate and filled in with the epoxy. Its held up for almost three years with no cracking.
The work was done on our dragster. We shaved three of the door handles, gas filler door and lock holes.
shaving door handels - Page 2 -- posted image.
shaving door handels - Page 2 -- posted image.
nowlater123 
Copper - Posts: 61
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 24, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: June 30, 2005 at 12:13 AM / IP Logged  

Depending on how thick the plastic panel is, you might be able to flush rivet a peice of plastic or metal behind the panel.                                                                                                                                                       

Kenwood all the Way!
abovestock 
Copper - Posts: 247
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 08, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: June 30, 2005 at 2:22 AM / IP Logged  
How would I go about placing and riveting a pannel to the door and filling it. I am looking for some pretty detailed instructions with pictures if possible. Thank you for the help so far.
01 Suburban LS 
Member - Posts: 43
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Joined: September 26, 2003
Location: California, United States
Posted: June 30, 2005 at 9:27 AM / IP Logged  

I did ours three years ago and didnt think of taking pics. But what I did was use a piece of black textured ABS plastic and rivited it to the the door panel. I counter sunk the rivet heads halfway into the door panel. When I filled the handle opening with epoxy I also filled the countersunk rivet head locations. Once it was all sanded smooth, you couldnt tell any of it was there.

For our next project car I'll be using pieces of extrra door panels we have. Since painting our race car, we have picked up several Saturns for parts and we have three sets of body panels. So next ime I should be able to do it faster and with less epoxy filler.

maglin 
Copper - Posts: 206
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 30, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: June 30, 2005 at 9:50 PM / IP Logged  
my dad took the handles off the door on his 69 opel. used the lock motors from a saturn van (90s something) to pull the mech open. put a cam spring in the bracket attached to the door jamb to 'pop open' the door when the motor pulled. set it up so the motor pulled/pushed on the bar just like the operating of the mechanism.
as for fiberglass, sounds like the only option. don't forget bondo and red gold when you're done with the glass, and primer and paint after that.
abovestock 
Copper - Posts: 247
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 08, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: July 01, 2005 at 3:20 AM / IP Logged  
I counter sunk the rivet heads halfway into the door panel.
My only question is how do you do this counter sink thing you speak of. No experiance riveting at all. Other than that sounds like the best plan and I will be doing that in the near future. Thank you so much for the sugestions and the patients.
01 Suburban LS 
Member - Posts: 43
Member spacespace
Joined: September 26, 2003
Location: California, United States
Posted: July 01, 2005 at 9:27 AM / IP Logged  

Just pick up a countersinking bit used for wood or metal screws. It is used to to get the screw head flush with the material you are working on. But instead of making the rivet head flush with the surface, just dig a litter deaper into the material and the rivet head will be below the surface.

Just dont go all the way through.

realitycheck 
Silver - Posts: 751
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 09, 2004
Posted: July 01, 2005 at 10:03 AM / IP Logged  
Yeah and be prepared those little bugers are expensive. I think i payed like 12 bucks for one at lowes.
Learning the trade one fiberglass creation at a time!
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