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Brutus 1605D vs. Crossfire VR1000D


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Samt18 
Copper - Posts: 123
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 13, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: July 07, 2005 at 9:34 PM / IP Logged  
ok.  im still not quite understanding the power ratings right on these subs.  the manual gives 3 different ones, from 375 all the way up to 1400.  Also, the amp was rated at 12.5 volts, so it actually pushes 1332 watts at 14 volts.  So i dont know if the subs might be the same way?  The guy up at the audio place said that the subs would be able to handle the amp, but I just don't see how that is gonna be possible.  I'm going back up there tomorrow to pick another sub up and I'll ask him about it again.
Samt18 
Copper - Posts: 123
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 13, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: July 07, 2005 at 10:59 PM / IP Logged  

ok i didnt explain that very well.  the crossfires are probably underrated, so they should handle more than 375 watts.  the guy at the audio place made it sound like 750 was the RMS number though, not 375 like the manual says.  The manual gives 375 as RMS, 750 as peak, and then 1400 as dynamic power handling.  The 1400 number is what confuses me.  I've only ever seen two numbers for power ratings, RMS and peak.  I'd never seen a third number before.  Can anyone explain that?

Blowntweeters 
Silver - Posts: 650
Silver spacespace
Joined: June 03, 2005
Location: Nevada, United States
Posted: July 08, 2005 at 11:08 AM / IP Logged  
its for sales reasons its just like peak power
1974 ford pinto 4 15" punch Z power punch bd 1001 pioneer DEH-6700
Samt18 
Copper - Posts: 123
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 13, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: July 08, 2005 at 5:07 PM / IP Logged  
the dynamic is just like peak power?  so if thats peak power, then what is the 750?  it would be nice if the 750 were actually the RMS number, but i dont think so.
Blowntweeters 
Silver - Posts: 650
Silver spacespace
Joined: June 03, 2005
Location: Nevada, United States
Posted: July 08, 2005 at 5:19 PM / IP Logged  
what i was saying was its like peak power as far as it really doesn't mean anything i have some ??'s what is the size of the voice coils and what is the weight of the magnet i'm thinking that those subs can handle that amp at 1 ohm and did you find out if you can get an warranty like the extra warranty at best buy were if you blow the subs you can bring them in and get new ones no ??'s
1974 ford pinto 4 15" punch Z power punch bd 1001 pioneer DEH-6700
Samt18 
Copper - Posts: 123
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 13, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: July 08, 2005 at 7:39 PM / IP Logged  
ok the voice coil is 2.5" and it is 4 layer.  The magnet is 85 ounces, and I think the guy said that if I ever blow one of the subs I can take it back up to the audio place and they would send it back in for a new one.  As far as something other than that, I don't know.
Blowntweeters 
Silver - Posts: 650
Silver spacespace
Joined: June 03, 2005
Location: Nevada, United States
Posted: July 08, 2005 at 9:41 PM / IP Logged  
i think you can run the VR1000D but not for to long  i think the subs will blow if you play them for a long period of time  we are talking about running 650 RMS to each sub  you can try it just make sure you set your gain correctly
1974 ford pinto 4 15" punch Z power punch bd 1001 pioneer DEH-6700
Samt18 
Copper - Posts: 123
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 13, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: July 08, 2005 at 9:45 PM / IP Logged  
ok i will definitely try it.  i'll have the guy up there set the gains, and i'll check out some past threads on properly setting the gains and get that set up right.  i think i'll be able to get it set right to where i wont blow the subs
Blowntweeters 
Silver - Posts: 650
Silver spacespace
Joined: June 03, 2005
Location: Nevada, United States
Posted: July 09, 2005 at 9:54 AM / IP Logged  
you want to set the gain to match your preout power you are going to start with the factory H/U still right and you or the guy at that shop are going to have to put a meter on the H/U outputs that go to the factory amp the thing is with that factory  H/U you dont use a line out converter you have to tap into the outputs on the H/U  so you can A . cut your new RCA's or B. get some male to female RCA's plug's and cut the male ends and us those to kinda make preouts on the back of your factory H/U so when you upgrade you don't have to replace your RCA's
1974 ford pinto 4 15" punch Z power punch bd 1001 pioneer DEH-6700
Samt18 
Copper - Posts: 123
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 13, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: July 09, 2005 at 11:19 AM / IP Logged  
ok yeh i think i'll have the guy at the shop do it.  the thing is, i dont know if this makes any difference or not, but the 2003 Explorer has a factory sub in it, and it has a separate connection on the back of the head unit.  i had the install people up at best buy install the subs i have in there now, and they originally just unhooked the factory sub and tried to hook my subs up to something different, but it wasnt loud at all.  then they went back and hooked my subs up to the bass output that did have the factory sub on it.  that was what they had to do to get it loud.  again, i dont know if that matters at all, but i thought i would let you know anyway. 
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