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amp installation in a 98 navigator


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jdiazj1 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: July 07, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: July 07, 2005 at 10:38 AM / IP Logged  
hello, I wanted to install an amp in my 98 navigator but to the factory sterio. I have the red battery cable, the blue remote cable, the rca cable, and the line output convertor. I need to hook up the amp. how do I do this? I hook up the battery cable already n ran it thru. I plan on hooking up the line output to the back of the radio using the wiring schematics from this site but I don't know where to hook up the remote to start up the amp. I was thinkin of maybe connecting it to the fuse panel but I don't know what fuse to use. there are a few extra, unsused fuse slot on there, can I use those or do I have to use one that's already being used. also, I noticed that the factory radio has a remote cable for the factory amp, can I just tap into that and get the signal from there? one last thing, my woofers have a led that says it needs a 12volt power supply but it says not to connect it directly to the battery. I want to either have it light up with a switch up front with me or when the lights turn on outside. how do I go about doing this? thank u for ur help. this is my first install
jdawg
us_test 
Copper - Posts: 200
Copper spacespace
Joined: May 21, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: July 07, 2005 at 10:48 AM / IP Logged  

The Navi has a remote wire from the factory.

I got a blue cable at the Head unit which is the remote turn on wire.

The 2nd option is to look for the BLACK/ pink + wire on the back of the HU.  This wire is not constant and comes on only when the car is on (so the amp doesn't stay on the whole night and drain the battery).

They meant to say don't connect the LED to the battery without a fuse).  Use 10AMP fuse tor the LED.  This is done so that if there is excesive voltage the fuse will blow and not the LED in this case.  Put fuse 18 inches or less from battery terminal.  You can get the inline fuse at WalMart for $2 and 40FT of red 18GA  (or 16GA) hookup wire is $2.37.

For the LED to come on with the lights you need BROWN + wire in the kick panel.  Wire it using a relay (see the diagrams on this site for further help).

(1) Kenwood Excelon Head Unit KDC-X589 (24 bit Burr Brown DAC, 3 X 4 volt RCA).
(1) RF Punch 250A2 - running the components.
(1) Hifonics 6.5" Atlas Components (18db crossovers).
jdiazj1 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: July 07, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: July 07, 2005 at 12:53 PM / IP Logged  
ok for the remote that's already built in the hu, can't I just add my remote to it n hook up a switch so I can cut it off whenever I don't need it? for the led, u said to connect it to the brown wire by the kick panel, there's a whole bunch of cables there taped up, is there only one brown cable or is the cable brown with some kind of stripe on it? after I connect the cable to that brown cable, do I really need a relay, can't I just connect the cable, hook up a fuse to it and just run it straight to the led? or do I really need that relay? thanks
jdawg
us_test 
Copper - Posts: 200
Copper spacespace
Joined: May 21, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: July 07, 2005 at 1:28 PM / IP Logged  
Remote -Yes you splice into the blue cable.  You don't need the switch, this wire turns off voltage at the same time as the head unit (so your amp will be on when the head unit is on and only then).  Correct you can do it without the relay just the fuse (10 AMP).  The wire is brown,  find the brown wire in the kick panel, strip a bit of the insulation (Careful) with a razor blade or similar device, then take your multimeter and touch black lead to bare metal on car and red on brown wire,  set your DMM to 20V DC on the dial, turn the lights on and you should see ~12V DC, turn them off and you should see 0 volts.  Best to stay away from test lights alway use a DIMM (if you don't have one invest in one $15-20 will get you one, also get aligator test leads they cost $2.50 at WalMart will help you a lot when using the DIMM).  Test light can, cause possible damage to ECU or possible trigger airbags to deploy (ABS airbag always marked with yellow cables, harness on all cars, see yellow don't mess with it).  Again the ECU and airbag issues when using a test light are not happening all the time but a $20 investment in a DMM is better than a $800 replacement ECU or airbag.
(1) Kenwood Excelon Head Unit KDC-X589 (24 bit Burr Brown DAC, 3 X 4 volt RCA).
(1) RF Punch 250A2 - running the components.
(1) Hifonics 6.5" Atlas Components (18db crossovers).
jdiazj1 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: July 07, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: July 07, 2005 at 1:42 PM / IP Logged  
well thank u for that retailed explanation, this is exactly what I needed. the led is from my subwoofers but if I get other accessories with leds and only want them to turn on when the lights turn on, can I just daisy chain them and add a bigger fuse? thank u
jdawg
us_test 
Copper - Posts: 200
Copper spacespace
Joined: May 21, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: July 07, 2005 at 3:06 PM / IP Logged  
It all depends what you are adding, if it is just LEDs you can tun off the same wire (10 LEDs or maybe a bit more) then YES daisy chain.  You'll have to put resistors to drop the new LEDs (I assume they will be the 3volt or 1.5 which are very common on the market) voltage.  For most 470 ohm resistor is fine, you can go lower to make it brighter, I would not go lower than 350 ohms on bright LED (more juice, less LED life).  Use the calculators and the LED value to figure out what resistor to get.  If you run folg lights, I'd do a separate fused power line.
(1) Kenwood Excelon Head Unit KDC-X589 (24 bit Burr Brown DAC, 3 X 4 volt RCA).
(1) RF Punch 250A2 - running the components.
(1) Hifonics 6.5" Atlas Components (18db crossovers).
jdiazj1 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: July 07, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: July 08, 2005 at 5:32 PM / IP Logged  
hello, update on my installation, I did everything that I was told n the amp didn't even work, that's what I get for borrowing an amp from a friend but this is my problem here ... I opened up my kick panel, saw two bundles of cables, grabbed one, looked for a brown cable, found it, grabbed the other bundle, looked for a brown cable, didn't find it, so I chose the first bundle, stripped a little of the insulation, exposed the wire and connected my inline fuse which I was gonna be using to turn on a led on my box. I wanted the led to turn on when my outside lights turned on. once I finished all the wiring, I grounded the box and plugged the battery back in. ok now for the problem, not only did the led not turn on but my whole dash don't turn on. there is no light on the dash. when I turn the outside light on it used to give me a 'ding' alerting me that I had left the light on, now it don't 'ding' anymore. what could it possibly be. could it be simply that I blew the fuse or something greater. since I don't have my owners manual, I don't know which fuse to chek. am I going to have to take out all of them n chek them. please help!!!
jdawg
floydmgf 
Member - Posts: 1
Member spacespace
Joined: July 16, 2005
Posted: July 23, 2005 at 9:27 PM / IP Logged  
I hooked up my VR2 amp and a red light stays on. it is supposed to be green if it is working right. i checked my wiring and everything is hooked up correctly. i used the right gauge power wire. the thing just doesn't work. can anybody help me out and tell me what to do?

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