1986 Cutlass Supreme RWD Remote starter

HiIv recently been installing a new car alarm in my Cutlass and so Far I got the door locks to work on the remote and the alarm works. Right now im trying to install the remote start.Here is the wiring thats I did.The remote start is startin to work but from some reason it is cranking but wont start.If I start the car with the key in the ignition and start it starts up instantly, but when I start it by remote without the key in it the remote start just cranks.Does anyone know why it might be doing this?Here is what I hooked the Remote start wires up to. "5 Heavy Gauge starter harness in the starter module (ignition switch interface)"Alarm wire below:Purple wire: Starter output (+). Connect to the vehicles starter wire.Car wire below:I have this hooked up the the Purple wire under the steering column. Im sure this one is right because the car wouldn't be cranking if it wasn't.Alarm wire below:Orange wire: Accessory Output (+) Connect to the accessory wire coming from the ignition switch that supplies power to the heater/ac. Car Wire below:I have this one hooked up to the big Brown wire under the steering column. It only gets power when the key is in the ignition and turned 2 clicks. Alarm Wire below:Pink wire A: Ignition output(+). Connect to the main ignition wire that provides +12v when the ignition is on and while cranking the starter.Car wire below:I have this one hooked up to the big red wire under the steering column. While cranking is drops to like 10v and it Meters 14v when the car is running. I don't know if this one is right.Alarm wire below:Pink Wire B: Second ignition output (+) Connect to the second ignition wire of the vehicle.Car wire below:I have this one hooked up to the big pink wire hooked up under the steering column. It meters 12v at all times and 14v when car is running.Alarm wire below:Yellow Wire: (+) Ignition input of Key Cylinder to alarm. Connect to the ignition wire that provides +12v when the ignition wire is on and while cranking the starter.Car wire below:I also have this one hooked up the the big Brown wire under the steering column that only giver power when the key is in the ignition and turned 2 times.The remote start is working to some extent the engine just isn't firing up. It cranks but just doesn't start until I put the key in the ignition and do it manually.If I hook up the distributor wire to constant power the car will run non stop untill I unplug the wire. I need help finding a way to wire up the remote start to give power to the relay... to power the distributor when the remote start is activated. I would also need to be able to still use the key start method. This is very confusing. Can someone who has any info on Remote Start car alarms help me out on how Remote Starts are done please.Im very confused.Can someone explain how these units work and how I would bypass the ignition switch but still be able to start the car by key.Any help would be appreciated.Thanks,Chris

Thanks

I looked over a few wires and had the Ign #1 on the starter module hooked up to the wrong wire. I hooked it up to the Ignition on the vehicle and a few loose ends. It fired right up.

Now I just gotta try to figure out how I am going to get the window rolling-up out-put (-) to work.

My window switch has 6 wires going to it.

One is Pink- 12v when ignition is on.

One is Black- Which is a ground.

One is a Blue-Brown Which is driver window unroll

One is a Blue- Which is driver window roll-up.

One is a Tan- Which is passanger window unroll.

One is Blue/White- Which is passanger window roll-up.

I also have an electric trunk opener that is self grounded. I think I might have to switch it out for a trunk popper with a ground cable so I can attach the ground cable to the alarm module to pop the trunk open.

Is there a way to relay the positive on the trunk opener to pop when I hit the switch on the remote which is a -.

Thanks for the help. If anyone could give me wiring ideas for the rest id appreciate it.

Thanks,

           Chris

For the windows, do you have a module? The trunk will require a relay so there is no point in trading it out for a different one. Check the relay link to the right, look for converting polarity - to +.Certified Security Specialist

Always check info with a digital multimeter.

I promise to be good.

Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.

Yes you will need a window module like a DEI 529T.Certified Security Specialist

Always check info with a digital multimeter.

I promise to be good.

Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.

For the trunk release on that car, I STRONGLY suggest getting a factory power trunk release. Beleive me, I have a Cutlass like that myself. You can find one in a junkyard for very cheap,(I paid 5 bucks for mine) one off a big Caddy like a fleetwood or Deville will fit too. Its only one bolt that holds it to the trunk latch and it grounds itself, you only have to hook up one wire. I've fumbled with them cable typs solenoids and they gave me problems. Especially if you have BASS in your trunk, dont use it. Any other questions about Cutlasses, just ask. I'm a cutlass fanatic, where do you think my screen name came from?