Speaker Building

I own an Ford Explorer and I have built a custom box, and amp rack with the subs firing up and the floor raised.  I have components in the front with the tweeters attached to the pillars.  I take my truck on the beach occasionaly, and when I do I want to listen to my music at a decent level.  My problem is that all the sound is being aimed inside the car, therefore I have to really crank it to hear it.

What I want to do to fix this problem is put together a set of boxes, almost like truck boxes, that I can turn off and on with the flick of a switch.  I would also like to do this as cheaply as possible, since I am not too worried about sound quality since I am going to be at the beach anyways and that this will not be used very much.  I have 2 JBL 6.5" GTi midranges lying around with small slits in their surrounds.  I also have a set of 3 way radio shack crossovers.  The amps I have running already are teh Phoenix Gold Ti600.2 and the JBL 80.2 .  I would like to be able to run whatever I build off one of these amps with a switcher (to get it off the normal speakers to these back "hatch" speakers) of some sort that would not involve me physically switching wires since the amp is tucked away in the amp rack. 

How would you guys recommend going about this, without spending a lot since this is by no means for great sound quality, just to have some tunes when throwing the football around.  I was thinking of buying a set of horns or tweeters off partsexpress and running them off one of the amps.  However, I am not sure how much power to give what I have, what kind of tweeters to get, how to hook 2 speakers up to a 3 way crossover (and the resulting load on the amp) and most of all, what type of switching device I can use.

I know this is long, but I just wanted to get this all out there.  I appreciate all your help in advance,  and apologize for any stupid things I may have asked or said.

Evan

Well, i dont know about speaker/amp compatasbilities 'cause i dont really feel like looking up the specs or your stuff.  However, what I would do as far as switching speaker sets is use a relay.  you would hook up your main and aux. speakers into the relay.  I would tie into your remote wire and wire a switch between the remote and the relay.  So when the switch is off, everythinf will work as it does now.  Then when you flip the switch, the relay enegizes and the contacts switch position to direct the power from the amp to the aux. speakers instead of the mains.  I wouldnt worry about a x-over or anything like that since you dont care about sq.  you subs will still be hitting so you should still get enough bass response.  Just test what ever speakers and enclosure you plan on using with the amp before you go through to much trouble.  You may not get much more volume than if you just had your doors open. 

alternativly, depending on what freqencies are allowed through your sub amp, you could do the same thing with the bigger amp.  My friend had a home stereo cabnet hooked to his amp and it worked great for outside lisening. 

A few questions...and pardon my stupidity on this manner.

Would wiring my front speakers up to a relay induce a lot of distortion or noise into my dailty driving system?  Although I would like to gain the ability to have rear hatch speakers, I don't want to sacrifice the sound of anything else that is already in the car. 

Second, how would I wire up the relay for this.  I am already using a relay in the car to beef up the remote wire signal now, so I am somewhat familiar with them, but I just can't think of how I could use a relay to switch speakers.  I also do not want both speakers playing at the same time. 

Thanks for your help,

Evan

Probably just a simple toggle switch like THIS ONE would do the trick for you.  Amp's speaker wires go to the center, and you toggle either to one side or the other.  The dual sets of speakers are connected to either side of the switch.  Use as many as you need to.

I agree with Jaydawg on using speakers already built for something like this.  Building speakers with the intent that they don't have to sound good WILL ENSURE that the final result will not sound good.  Like he said...some old house speakers.  That way at least the crossovers will match with the speakers, and you're not spending a lot of time building something of poor quality.  Spend your time building speakers of high quality...that's what you want to do!

The switch is in the speaker wiring after the amplifier...there won't be any induced noise.  The terminals must not be allowed to touch chassis, though.  So mount the switches instead of letting them lie around.  You can build a small switch box.

http://www.electronixwarehouse.com/education/speakers/whatstweet.htm

http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/pjay99site/speakerhome.html

You may find the horn tweeter better suited to that type of application where you want to direct the sound over a long range in a straight direction.  You see horn tweeters used in equipment setups for club bands where they want to extend the sound across a large room.  Read the links, too.