Alarm Problems in 93 Civic

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jondaphenom114

Member - Posts: 19

Joined: August 11, 2004

Posted: August 16, 2005 at 8:14 AM / IP Logged

The meter is a Digital multi meter. The dome light shuts off immediately with all doors closed. There is no delay. With all the door switches removed I still can't get to 0V when trying to ground each one individually. The problem seemed to start after I wrapped up all the wires in electrical tape, secured the control unit, mounted the antenna and moved to a more secure ground in the kickpannel. I have two questions, I removed the wires that don't apply to my vehicle from the actual harness rather than just letting them dangle. Is that a problem? and does pulling the power from the module reset the settings to factory defaults? Any more suggestions? With all doors closed, the dome light is off and I can use the alarm as a keyless entry and unlock/lockk the doors, but without fail, about 10 seconds after arming, the alarm chirps 3 times indicating an open door. I guess I will probably pull the tape back off and recheck all connections. Does this sounds like a wiring problem or a glitch with the module itself? I'm eager to find out because of my warranty. Thanks guys.

jondaphenom114

Member - Posts: 19

Joined: August 11, 2004

Posted: August 16, 2005 at 11:36 AM / IP Logged

I have it hooked up to that lt. GREEN/ red wire and thats the one that gives me 1V with a door open but what about the GREEN/ blue wire coming directly from the drivers door switch. It measures 12v with all doors closed and 0v when any of the doors are open. Should I use this wire? Anybody know what typically a warranty covers? I've been trying to contact the people I bought the unit from with no avail. I don't want to be out the money I spent on the thing. And I don't want to be chasing around a problem in wiring when it's something wrong with the main module.

jondaphenom114

Member - Posts: 19

Joined: August 11, 2004

Posted: August 16, 2005 at 8:52 PM / IP Logged

Well using that wire as a test didn't work so I know I have a different problem. That wire showed a perfect 0v when open and 12v with door closed. What else would make an alarm do what this one is doing? It seems like I've ruled out everything in terms of wiring. The brain must be defective or somehow out of whack. Any other thoughts or opinions or ideas I can try before I scrap the whole project? I know nothing about what services installation shops offer but is there a way to know definitively if my main module is bad. Like a test of some sort that they can do. Thanks again.

jondaphenom114

Member - Posts: 19

Joined: August 11, 2004

Posted: August 17, 2005 at 5:00 PM / IP Logged

One quick other note that I don't know if it makes sense or not. The main module has 3 harnesses, one for the remote start, one for power, ground, power lock/unlock, and the other for other inputs like brake input, door trigger input, tach input and so on... I pluged in the first two, then took my meter and checked for voltage coming from the pins that the third harness plugs into. Everything read 0V except... the door pin trigger spot. It shows a constant 11V no matter what. Is this normal? Could this be my problem? Is my module somehow stuck and therefore will always show a door open regardless of my wiring? Well, if anyone else has anything to add I would appreciate it. Thanks again

mo12v

Platinum - Nominee - Posts: 2,748

This member consistently provides reliable information

Joined: September 30, 2003

Location: Afghanistan

Posted: August 17, 2005 at 5:15 PM / IP Logged

Have you tried Unhooking the Alarm Door Trigger wire and Arm the Alarm? Or GROUNDING the Alarm Trigger wire by itself after Arming?

Don't Learn from Others Mistakes

You Might Be the One That Knows.

suspendedHatch

Member - Posts: 21

Joined: May 26, 2005

Location: Utah, United States

Posted: August 17, 2005 at 6:58 PM / IP Logged

It's not the alarm, it's your wiring. First of all, disconnect your door trigger connection and verify that the alarm works otherwise.

The door trigger input from the alarm that you are using is a negative, not a positive, correct? Your car needs the negative wire.

You want the thick light green wire with the red stripe that is under the plastic, inside the rectangular plastic case next to the driver's seat. NOT the dark green with the red stripe. You could also use the wire from the passenger's side switch. If you pull back your rear interior plastic at the door sill, you can see the switch and the wire.

The GREEN/ blue wire is for your dome light output on your alarm. You can find this wire at the blue harness on the fuse block.

Yes it is fine, in fact preferable, to depin the unused wires from the alarm harness.

I happen to be an expert on the 92-95 Civics and other Hondas. Take a look at my site for more information than you will ever need. http://members.cox.net/shaundrake/alarm/carAlarmMods.html

Search for other posts by suspendedHatch

jondaphenom114

Member - Posts: 19

Joined: August 11, 2004

Posted: August 17, 2005 at 8:08 PM / IP Logged

Nice web site, alot of helpful info. I disconnected the door trigger connection completely and it still does the same thing. Chirps 3 times and tells me on the remote that a door is ajar. Define, works otherwise because I can do pretty much everything else. The remote start even works. The doors lock and unlock and the alarm siren works well. The only issue I seem to have is the door trigger. I am using the wire you mentioned and I've tested all of my wires with my DMM at the harness to make sure the unit is receiving the proper voltage signals. What leads me to beleive that it is an internal brain problem is that is worked the first day I tested it out, then the next day it did not when I wrapped all the wires up and secured my ground. I'm not sure what else to try. How would I know if my brain is dead and I need to try and go after my warranty? The only other thing I can think of is that I see another harnes in there under the dash for a previous alarm. There is not a module hooked up to it and I can't measure any voltage from it either but is there a possibility something is changing voltage when I shut the door and attempt to arm my new system? I have also been working with the door/dome open for a long period of time. Obviously this drains the battery somewhat but what effect can this have on my alarm? I would hope it is my wiring but more and more I'm thinking that it must be something completely different. Thanks again for all your posts and I hope to hear more feedback soon.

jondaphenom114

Member - Posts: 19

Joined: August 11, 2004

Posted: August 18, 2005 at 6:07 PM / IP Logged

No good guys. I tried the above recomended remedy and it still does the same ol' thing. When I arm the alarm it simply locks the doors, the LED (which is part of a shock sensor/antenna combo mounted on the windsheild) blinks like it is armed, then it chirps three times and the LED goes out. I can't get the alarm to sound when armed at all. Not by pressing the brake, thumping near the sensor or even starting the car. Another thing is, even though the remote starter works, it acts stragely as well. Pressing the brake does not disable the remote start. And turning the key to the "ON" position does not either. After remote starting, the only way to turn off the engine is to use the remote. I'm stumped. I never invisioned this whole thing working out this way. It is very frustrating, time consuming and not too mention expensive because I am out $$$ in the process. Not a good experience overall. Hopfully my warranty works out but if it doesn't, thats the last time I waste my time with a product from an unproven manufacturer. Any thoughts or comments? If anybody is interested the alarm I am working with is pretty much only available on ebay. It is a motorjoy GTO patrol with 2way paging and remote start. Looks good on a computer screen but working with it has been a horror as you can see.

OhioMike1101

Silver - Posts: 343

Joined: August 22, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: August 18, 2005 at 6:53 PM / IP Logged

most alarm companies do not give u any warranty unless bought and installed by an authorized dealer.

And..... you always get what you pay for!

mo12v

Platinum - Nominee - Posts: 2,748

Joined: September 30, 2003

Location: Afghanistan

Posted: August 18, 2005 at 8:18 PM / IP Logged

Did you hook up Hood or Trunk Trigger?? If so to what wire?

Don't Learn from Others Mistakes

You Might Be the One That Knows.

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