2000 Ford Explorer, alarm/remote start

Ok, i have staid up since late last night installing prep, etc and I have hit a road block early this morning. I am tapping into each individual door and truck and then unsing diodes accross all door and a relay. However the problem comes with the drivers door trigger, I have tried serveral. Basically here is where I am... The trigger wire, if you remove the door panel is Yellow w/ black stripe. I followed it all the way up till the hinge, which I noticed there were two yellow wires, both with black stripes and they were the same gauges. There is a 3rd, buts its 12ga I think, and is deff not it. The weird this is on the other side of the door hinge, I only see 1 of the large yellow and one small, its like one is missing or they changed color through the hinge? Thanks in advanced!

yeah so. did u use your test meter to test for a negative wire when the door is open? don't just rely on the colors from the wiring chart. Test each wire before you tie anything into it.Steve G

lol, seeing too much of that lately. I remember back during one of my first installs like 10 years ago when i just went by the wiring diagram. i luckily got everything else right but when i tried to remote start I'd hear a click click. I was like what the hell was that. lol It sounded like it was coming from the back of the car. I did it again...click click. lol So I get out of the car and go around back and try again. Then I noticed the gas door was open. LMAO I accidentally wired the start output to the vehicle's gas door release wire. I think it was my mother's car, my family had a few laughs at my expense for that one. Ever since then I test everything. LOLSteve G

Yes, I have tested the wires. When I had the door pannel off it tested fine, but its somewhere in the hinge that that wire gets lost or changes colors? The only 2 yellow/black wires are higher gauge and go to something else. Also, I started on the remote start and it sounds as if it makes like one rotation and stops. There are 4 yellow wires underthere, of which 1 is a constant, which they all appear to be constants, but something isn't right... Any ideas before a spend the rest of the day out there? :) Also, once I wire remote start / the 791xv, I am suppose to be able to start my car with the keys right? Correct me if I am wrong, but When I looked at the wires and what goes where, the only wire from the alarm going to the key box was the starter out, running through the alarm? Thanks,

mcmcomput wrote: Also, I started on the remote start and it sounds as if it makes like one rotation and stops.

Where is your tach wire hooked to?

mcmcomput wrote: There are 4 yellow wires underthere, of which 1 is a constant

If you have more than 1 constant then you can use them. The only ones you want are the heavy guage. STAY AWAY FROM THE YELLOW TUBE WHICH ARE AIRBAG WIRES. Just use a heavy guage solid yellow wire for one of the red power input leads of the 791xv and use another heavy guage solid yellow for the other red power lead. This way you don't overload any one wire by trying to power your ignition, accessory and starter with it.

mcmcomput wrote: Also, once I wire remote start the 791xv, I am suppose to be able to start my car with the keys right?

You should be able to unless the remote start thinks it's on and the vehicle is running. In which case the alarm will disable the key so that you won't re-grind the starter. If you hooked up the starter kill/antigrind correctly you should only be able to start with the key when the alarm is disarmed and not remote started. You cut the starter wire in half and wired both the green and the purple to it correct?

mcmcomput wrote: the only wire from the alarm going to the key box was the starter out, running through the alarm?

You need to clarify that. what's the key box? The transponder bypass module? If so you should have the status output wired to it turning the bypass on during remote start. Lastly, what are you using to connect the 791xv's wires to the vehicle wires?Steve G

Door Triger as in the BLACK / YELLOW wire, which I can see inside the door pannel near the locking mechanisim on my door (where the window slides down). Tach wire is hooked to the Tan / YELLOW wire coming from the center set of wires plugging into the cluster. After playing with those 4 yellow wires, if they aren't in the right order even directly to the car it won't start. So I think thats my problem. The other thing I am thinking is, I never heard the little relays and noise you hear when you put the key in of your fuel pump starting, coils, PATS, etc. So I think one of those are mis colored or label according to alot od these sites. The actual start wires are correct though. The "KeyBox" i am referring to is the little box which you have to unscrew from the stering column. It has 4 yellows, and some other wires, all 10-12aw. Thats what I was referring to. Shouldn't there be a few others? Aux devices by turning the key backwards? When I get remote start working 100% can I start my car, the alarm remain enabled, obviously not the shock sensor. Hop in my car stick my key in and turn so I can put it in gear and drive off? Then say I get to the stopNgo, i pull the keys out, engine running, look the door behind me (activateing alarm). :) Is all that right? Thanks for everyone input so far. Just an FYI: I got the alarm running at about 65% right now. :) Trunk pin, doors locking/unlocking, 3 doors of the 4 are monitored :) trying to get the drivers side door and so far the shock sensor is great! not beeping on annyoing kids with bass.

Just a few more questions. :) Is the communication between the 791vx and the DEI 555P (Pats interface) digital? Such as, the 791xv, is told to start, to talks to the 555P, and tells it to "insert key", is that just a simple 12volt or some signal? As in if someone knew the wiring for the 555P, they could hook a 9volt up and spoof my key? Or is there actually some type of encrypted communication between the two? Also, my batterybackup sgould be in today, I was thinking, I have 3 sirens, can you ground the backup battery? so that each siren only needs the positive? Or does I need to run a full lead to each siren? I would think ground the backup could be harmful to something considering the cars battery is the same, only over 1k amps more. Is there by chance any websites with the remote start wiring or pictures? Maybe later today I will post some of mine, so you can see the wires I am talking about.

There is the picture of my car right now. :) after I cut and soldered the wires into the remote start kit, then had to make it back to normal inorder to drive to work.I think i got the rest of the install mapped out. The 555P, interface only has 1 wire which goes back to the 791xv, which is the status wire. Seems a bit basic and "hackable" if all it needs it that. Now the other thing, it says to "Tap" into the 3rd and 4th pin of the PATS system, do i need an diode in those or can I litteraly, just tap into it, with a wire 3 way snap on?I haven't gotten anywhere with my driver side dorm problem, I guess I will just re-run the wire?Has anyone with a ford had problems with the alarm going off running from a simple 4 door - pin tap and diodes? I have seen and heard some use the diodes and a relay for triggering, but I havn't had any problems with it yet, and want to avoide them in the future. :)

Ok, so far everything has gone well. When my car is remote started, the radio and air come on. However If I use the key to start it. The ingnition on (click of the key) only powers on I guess the ignition wire only? Is the accessory wire (orange) suppose to power on if I use the key? or am I missing something?Also, I am having problems with the remote start key being recongnized. I have 2 keys for my car, however looking online, it says you need to wait 1 minute before you try to start it.? Currently I just have one of the keys sitting on the steering column to be the "PAT".Thanks in advanced