the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

More power


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
jkyliej 
Copper - Posts: 101
Copper spacespace
Joined: September 28, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: October 04, 2005 at 12:47 AM / IP Logged  

I belive I need to add another battery to my trucks power system to handle the draw requirements my system and accesories currently have.  Is there a battery management device that is recomended?  I can come up with the hardware to mount the 2nd battery easy enough but efficiently managing the power and charge from the alternator would be key before I buy something I don't need or do need. The vehicle is a 00 k2500 silverado classic with a 5.7 eng.  Don't yet know what the alt output is.  After a year on the current config I have  recently run into a voltage problem at high volume levels that my head unit does not appear to like as it seems to be shutting down the remote turn on lead for the amps.  I have been watching the voltage level drop from my power grid for about three weeks until I ran inot this problem last night at or about 13 volts registered on the amp and head unit screen.  System: Alpine CDA-9835 Head - Alpine MRD-M501 Sub amp-Alpine MRV-F340 mids and highs to Infinity Seps and plates and 1 each Alpine SWR 10" Sub in a q-logic enclosure (modified to fit sub).

jkj
NicP 
Member - Posts: 29
Member spacespace
Joined: March 26, 2005
Location: Australia
Posted: October 04, 2005 at 3:47 AM / IP Logged  
i'd look into how much you alternator puts out and what kind of condition its in. I doubt adding another battery is going to help your problem much, unless of course your battery has gone bad, check that too. :D
jeffchilcott 
Platinum - Posts: 2,483
Platinum spacespace
Joined: April 11, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: October 04, 2005 at 6:16 AM / IP Logged  
At 13 volts nothing should be shutting down.   You might want to check the resistance on your ground wires. ensure you have a solid ground with low resistance.   Most amps and head units will operate down to 11 volts before you have issues
2009 0-1000 Trunk WR 154.0DB 2009 1001+ Trunk WR
2007 USACI World Champion
2007 World Record
2006 USACI Finals 2nd Place
speedwayaudio1 
Silver - Posts: 879
Silver spacespace
Joined: March 18, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: October 04, 2005 at 6:25 AM / IP Logged  

A second batt will help when playing your system when the truck's motor is not running, but to get the best of your elc system a new high output alt is were you need to start. 200amps and 2 good batts will be a good start.

Big Dave
forbidden 
Platinum - Posts: 5,352
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: November 01, 2003
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posted: October 04, 2005 at 2:19 PM / IP Logged  
Read the grounding sticky at the top of the forum first. Next get the battery replaced if it is found to not be holding a charge. Next consider a larger alternator. Adding a second battery is only going to compound the problem. Remember that a battery is a storage device, it does not create power. You need to make the transfer of power from the alternator / battery to the audio system as efficient as possible (the grounding thread explains this). If problems still arise, more than likely the battery ahs had it's day in the sun and needs to go to the old batteries home in the sky. The only thing that you can do to get more power available once the wire upgrade is done, is to use a larger alternator as this is the device that operates the vehicle and it's electrical system when the engine is running.
Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.
jkyliej 
Copper - Posts: 101
Copper spacespace
Joined: September 28, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: October 15, 2005 at 7:10 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks for all the feedback.  Turns out is was a faulty primary feed fuse holder under the hood.  The unit had small cracks in the polycarbonate housing that allowed water to get inside and corrode the push in connection at the glass fuse.  I replaced it with a blade fuse config from Rockford Fosgate and watched my voltage problems dissapear. 

Thanks again.

jkj

Sorry, you can NOT post a reply.
This topic is closed.

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Thursday, May 9, 2024 • Copyright © 1999-2024 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer