| ITEM | WIRE COLOR |POL| WIRE LOCATION |
| 12V|pnk/blk & RED / wht |+ |ignition harness |
| STARTER|yellow |+ |ignition harness |
| IGNITION|blue (16 awg) |+ |ignition harness |
| SECOND IGNITION|red or RED / wht |+ |ignition harness |
| ACCESSORY|green & orange |+ |ignition harness |
| SECOND ACCESSORY|blue & blk/wht *7 |+ |ignition harness |
| POWER LOCK|WHITE/ green *1 |- |driver kick panel |
| POWER UNLOCK|same wire | | |
| LOCK MOTOR|tan/pnk or tan/blk | |driver kick panel |
| UNLOCK MOTOR|blue | |driver kick panel |
| DISARM DEFEAT|tan/white | |passenger kick panel |
| PARKING LIGHTS +|BLACK / YELLOW | |relay under hood at pwr ctr |
| PARKING LIGHTS -|purple / YELLOW *2 | |headlight switch |
| HEADLIGHTS|purple / YELLOW *2 |- |headlight switch |
| DOOR TRIGGER|*3 |- |*3 |
| DOME SUPERVISION|use door trigger | | |
| FCTRY ALARM ARM|lt GREEN/ orange *4 |- |driver kick panel |
|FCTRY ALRM DISARM|same wire | | |
| DISARM NO UNLOCK|same wire | | |
| TACHOMETER|NOT GREEN/ orange | |ign coil, coil pac, injector|
| SPEED SENSE|WHITE/ orange | |conn. 2, pin 27 @ PCM *5 |
| BRAKE WIRE|WHITE/ tan |+ |brake pedal switch |
| HORN TRIGGER|BLACK/ red |- |steering column |
| WIPERS|brn/wht(L),rd/yel(H)|+ |wiper motor |
| LF WINDOW UP/DN|lt blue - white |A |driver window switch |
| RF WINDOW UP/DN|brn/wht - pur/wht |A |driver kick panel |
| LR WINDOW UP/DN|RED / blk - blu/wht |A |driver kick panel |
| RR WINDOW UP/DN|grn/wht - gry/blk |A |driver kick panel |
| RADIO 12V|pink |+ |radio |
| RADIO GROUND|BLACK/ green |- |radio |
| RADIO SWITCH|BROWN / red |+ |radio |
| RADIO ILLUMINATE|ORANGE / blue (dimmer)|+ |radio |
| LF SPEAKER|lt grn/rd-lt grn/grn| |radio or amplifier *6 |
| RF SPEAKER|lt blu/pu-lt blu/blk| |radio or amplifier *6 |
| LR SPEAKER|wht/red - wht/blk | |radio or amplifier *6 |
| RR SPEAKER|tan/pur - tan/blk | |radio or amplifier *6 |
Notes:NOTE: For the 2002 Ram 2500/3500, refer to the 2001 techsoft sheet. NOTE: Chrysler vehicles that use a gray ignition key have an immobilizer system that needs to be bypassed when remote starting. *1 Lock requires a negative trigger thru a 820 ohm resistor. Unlock requires a negative trigger thru a 330 ohm resistor. MUST use relays. *2 Parking lights require a negative trigger thru a 330 or 1.4K ohm resistor. Headlights require a negative trigger thru a 1.8K ohm resistor. There is a rest resistance on the wire, so MUST use a relay to isolate away from the switch. *3 The LF door trigger is tan, and the LR door is tan/orange or PURPLE / orange. These wires are in the driver kick panel. The RF door trigger is tan/red, and the RR door is tan / YELLOW. These wires are in the passenger kick panel. Use all wires and diode isolate each. *4 This will also do door locks. Arm/lock is negative trigger thru a 2K ohm resistor. Disarm/unlock is negative trigger thru a 480 ohm resistor. Single pulse will do disarm without unlocking the doors. Unlock requires a double pulse. MUST use relays. *5 The PCM (Powertrain Control Module) is on the passenger side firewall. *6 The amplifier is located behind the glove box. *7 These wires may not be necessary for remote start.
Pink/black and RED / white are constant power. And so is BLACK/ orange, although since it's a small-gauge wire, I wouldn't tap into it.
A smaller blue wire is the main ignition--you need to activate this to remote start the truck at all. Second ignition is red, the same size as the blue wire.
The large green accessory wire powers the fan. The small orange wire allows the ABS and airbag lights to turn off---it tests as an accessory wire, but you can also power it as an ignition if you need to for whatever reason.
The BLACK/ white powers the radio.........didn't need it for remote start.
Parking lights: I could never find a resistor value that would reliably do parking lights only---the headlights would often come on too. DEI's Techsoft says you need to use an outboard relay to interrupt the factory parking light wire, and THEN trigger it with the resistor. I think it's far simpler just to run a positive wire under the hood, and catch the standard BLACK / YELLOW parking lights wire coming out of the underhood fuse box.
I used the GREEN/ orange factory arm/disarm wire for the locks---it's the wire that tests by turning the key in the door. It worked great, and turned on the factory domelight supervision too. You do need a unit that will put out a double pulse, though. And I usually don't need to use relays. Attach a slightly-smaller-than-called-for resistor to your unit's lock and unlock outputs. Put a diode after each resistor. Attach the other ends of the diodes to the car.
parklights are 315 ohm and can be gotten behind the dash coming from light switch it is a purple / YELLOW, you can also get the BLACK / YELLOW wire + park lights wire inside on the big harness left of the brake /clutch it is buried though. As for the door trigger you can get one wire to catch all the doors it is brown - and is in the driver a pillar or from underneath way up high in a fabric loom just use a small light to confirm before you tap and of course test as well but this gets all 4 or 2 doors .
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA