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Alternator Upgrade & 2nd Battery


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LqDFx 
Copper - Posts: 69
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 10, 2004
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: October 27, 2005 at 3:19 PM / IP Logged  

I need to upgrade my alternator since I installe dmy new amps. The amps I have are in my sig. They output about 800w RMS combined and 2200w Peak combined (if the birthsheets are right). What would be the amprage that I am looking at drawing? A=W/V?

I was thinking about going from the 90 Mustang stock 80 amp to a 130 amp unit and I want to make sure it is going to be good enough. It outputs 80 amps at idle and 130 amps at 3000 rpm.

Also, should I look into placing a second battery in my trunk with the setup that I am running? And could the second battery just be a matched Ultmia Red Top like I have in the engine bay?

LqDFx 
Copper - Posts: 69
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 10, 2004
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: October 27, 2005 at 3:21 PM / IP Logged  

Sorry I forgot to show my sig!

I have a RF P4004 @ 400w RMS and a RF P3001 @ 350w RMS

Sony XAV-A1 HU, RF P4004 AMP, RF P3001 AMP, 2 RF 10" P1S410 Subs, LA S2.35.2 Dash Speakers, LA S2.525.2 Door Speakers, RF FRC3268 Rear Speakers
geepherder 
Platinum - Posts: 3,668
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: October 27, 2003
Posted: October 27, 2005 at 8:48 PM / IP Logged  

Actually, I'd be surprised if you needed to upgrade anything.  Hook it up and see.  It can never hurt to upgrade your alternator, but a second battery would be completely unnecessary in your case. 

The exception would be if you were to play your system on the secondary battery with the car off for long periods of time.  Then I'd recommend a deep cycle (yellow top) and battery isolator.

Good luck.

My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.
LqDFx 
Copper - Posts: 69
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 10, 2004
Location: Indiana, United States
Posted: October 28, 2005 at 1:05 PM / IP Logged  

Well something must be wrong with the alt or something, since you are the second on eto tell me that the setup should be fine. I have a Red Top in the car now btw. After hooking up the stereo and testing things out, I get the voltage gauge dramiticly dropping! I am thinking, after reading a couple great forms, about doing a couple of the big 3s. I more than likely am not going to be doing what looks to be one of the more critical one though. The power from the alt to the battery I am not sure I can do because of the way the alt hooks into the elec. system. It is through two plugged connections, so I have small guage wires running to a plug harness and then into the alt. If I upgrade the alt, I can use a 4ga wire witha ring terminal going to the battery.

ragoal12 
Copper - Posts: 135
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 23, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: October 28, 2005 at 1:56 PM / IP Logged  

lqdfx.. ur going about this the right way... upgrade the big 3.. and put a 4ga wire from ur alt. to ur battery with a simple ring terminal will work fine..  u still may need to upgrade the alternator.. as people neglect the amps that ur car needs to run before u added the stereo system..  and with ur wattage u need about 80 just for the system and ur car needs 20-30 amps.. so if ur alt. will put out around a 100 amps ur fine but if not u may need to upgrade..

S.O.B custsoms.. South Omaha, Nebraska
geepherder 
Platinum - Posts: 3,668
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: October 27, 2003
Posted: October 28, 2005 at 9:34 PM / IP Logged  
If your voltage is dropping like crazy and your cables/grounds check out okay, then it sounds like your alternator has taken a dump.  Go ahead and upgrade.
My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.
weldaround 
Member - Posts: 1
Member spacespace
Joined: February 24, 2005
Location: Canada
Posted: October 30, 2005 at 3:15 AM / IP Logged  

You could take the alternator out and have some shop bench test if first.  Then make your chioce of replacing it.  Just a thought

John........

steezs 
Copper - Posts: 172
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 30, 2005
Location: Canada
Posted: November 03, 2005 at 9:34 PM / IP Logged  
Where do you test for voltage drops from the alternator and where do you put the DMM needles when testing for good ground.
the duce
arrow12 
Silver - Posts: 527
Silver spacespace
Joined: October 06, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: November 03, 2005 at 9:42 PM / IP Logged  
Sorry for being a little off topic, but I have a question regarding the big 3.  Do you need to fuse the power wire from the alt to the battery?
That's my opinion. Take it, leave it, or correct me.
stevdart 
Platinum - Posts: 5,816
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: January 24, 2004
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November 03, 2005 at 9:45 PM / IP Logged  

steezs:  voltage drop is measured at the battery and at the amplifier.  Resistance reading is from the ground of the unit you're testing to the car battery negative.  Usually an extension of heavy wire is necessary to reach both places with the meter probes, so you measure resistance of that wire and figure it in your calculation.  Any two ground points can be measured for resistance.  Read the grounding stickies at the top...it's covered there.

arrrow:  I don't think you do but it sure is a good idea to fuse all power wires.

Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
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