Amp im interested in

Forget about watts. Period. Think of watts as an advertisement. How efficient is the amp is the question. If the amp will run at 1 ohm then run at 1 ohm regardless of the watts it will hit way harder.

14.4 volts is the amount of juice your car gets when its running. The alternator puts about 14 volts out so it can charge the batt AND power the car electronics. Do NOT buy a capacitor-theyre crap. Get a battery in the trunk if you want to bump with the car off-any other power issue will be solved with a hi output alternator. In your case i wold just run at 10hm mono and get 4 gauge or better wiring. Oh yeah the deck is also important-how mnay volts are the preouts?

Whoa! That is pretty off there. Ignoring MAX wattage is sensible, but RMS wattage is a legitimate number that needs to be followed.

You have now suggested that one can purchase a 100 watt amp for a 1000 watt sub, I don't think that is going to work too well. The same goes for an amp that is too powerful for a speaker. There are thernal limitations on speakers. 

Efficiency is relative, but not really a controllable factor, some amps are simply better at this.

Few amps are stable at one ohm. Running any amp at one regardless of the amp, will increase THD greatly and cause more heat throug the device, causing a shortened life.

$tory, that amp will produce roughly 200 watts per speaker, which would be fine. When your car is on it will produce roughly 13-14 volts.

in theory it will make 400 watts rms at two ohms stereo.  as far as getting 14.4 volts i sell step- up transformers to acheive that at only $200 bucks a piece talk about a bargan!!!!!

seriously when the engine is running your alternator will put out 14.4 volts so no extra stuff needed their.

What did you just type?

Do you have any idea how this reads?

PUNCTUATION and GRAMMAR are cool these days.

And caps are realtively useless, as if this topic hasn't been beaten to death yet.

Stiffening subs? I digress...