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Installing additional lights


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l0gik2 
Member - Posts: 33
Member spacespace
Joined: November 14, 2005
Posted: November 15, 2005 at 2:19 AM / IP Logged  
Always check the power source u intend to use.  If its just leds i wouldn't worry about the power usage or relays.  I usually tap into the cigarette lighter power and just ground to the frame.  Test your lighter wire first before doing anything to see if it goes off when the key is out and on ehwn the key is turned on.  It should but always check.  Any power source that comes on when u want it on is a good power source to use.  Probably sun roof, radio,  cigarette lighter, etc
jdkoppel 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: November 09, 2005
Location: New Zealand
Posted: November 15, 2005 at 2:40 AM / IP Logged  
Sounds good thanks! What gauge wire do you use for your LEDs? The lighter power runs through a fuse aye?
Oznium 
Member - Posts: 24
Member spacespace
Joined: November 14, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: November 15, 2005 at 4:06 AM / IP Logged  
I did a write up explaining "multiple wires to the switch OR a single wire to the switch"
Hopefully it will clarify what I mean:
http://www.oznium.com/forum/topic8319
You can use between 18 and 24 gauge wire for your LEDs. Use what is cheapest and easiest for you.
The lighter is already fused, yep.
total_overkill 
Copper - Posts: 93
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 24, 2005
Location: Canada
Posted: November 25, 2005 at 12:31 AM / IP Logged  

There are a couple different ways to get power.

Direct always on  usually on a toggle switch. from an available powersource. IE cigarette lighter or wired direct to battery ect and ground can be gained almost anywhere even to chasis of car.

Key turned events Igniti on on but also works when key turned backwards. Ground anywhere again. Great source is remote off the deck.

Also interior lights which is when a  door is opened ect the power is supplied. Good place for this is iff existing floor lights . I found in my grand am that I needed to tie it in with the negative that ran there also or it didn't work.

I suggest an inline fuse and low amperage fuse itself. 4 LEDs don't need a 10 amp fuse. And if you are fairly new to wiring I would definitely leave your fusebox alone. A mistake there can get pricey.

Also if you are wanting them to all come on at the same time I suggest a different wiring pattern.

You can have four led's come on off 1 resistor. A single LED is wired normally I use a 620  resistor

Power--Resistor(620)---Positive---(LED1)---Negative

Power--Resistor(390)---Positive---(LED1)---Negative----Positive---(LED2)---Negative

Power--Resistor(220)---Positive---(LED1)---Negative----Positive---(LED2)---Negative)---Positive---(LED3)---Negative----

Power--Resistor(33)---Positive---(LED1)---Negative----Positive---(LED2)---Negative)---Positive---(LED3)---Negative----Positive---(LED4)---Negative

where the resistor value has changed but still only one used.

I also found that the wire inside if ethernet cable is great for LEDs, Cheap. Make sure you shrinkwrap this wire thourh since the insulation  coatings are not that thick. This will resolve it.

total_overkill 
Copper - Posts: 93
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 24, 2005
Location: Canada
Posted: November 25, 2005 at 12:57 AM / IP Logged  

I forgot to mention after looking over the other aforementioned diagram that you can wire multiple sets up using that schematic but for larger sets. What you want is a Prime number though.  I will start by saying a cluster or pod is multiple LEDS.

For instance if you were wiring 12 LEDS you would want 3 clusters of 4

and whereas if you were wiring 9 LEDS you would want 3 clusters of 3 and not 2 clusters of four and a single to make 9.

jdkoppel 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: November 09, 2005
Location: New Zealand
Posted: November 25, 2005 at 11:18 PM / IP Logged  
what size fuse do you recommend?
total_overkill 
Copper - Posts: 93
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 24, 2005
Location: Canada
Posted: November 26, 2005 at 1:18 AM / IP Logged  

4 LEDS draw next to nothing. 1 amp should do. LEDS actually draw alot less current and give off brilliant light dispersment depending on brightness level and the way the actual light is released. You can get dim, or really bright LEDS. (light emmiting Diodes). You can also get them to shine in a very narrow beam or  in a very wide angle. which will cause alot of differnt lighting scenarios. Now combine that with a brightness level and you now have a vast array of lighting options. in 1 LED. Now you can make (arrays\clusters\pods) of multiple LEDS say a cluster of 4 where 2 are narrow and 2 are wide. You have now travelled to an extremely new level in the options produced.

sounds like nothing but it is truely important the type of LED you buy for what you want to use it for. If its not a pro thing or competition than any old led will do.Most people will notice very little difference anyway. Just depends how extreme you want it to be.

Good wire for LEDS can be found in computer ethernet cable RJ 45 (internet wire in the back of your computer). I have used it alot and is very cheap. You get 8 wires 4 pairs in each cable. seperate  2 cables from the 8. (they should be twisted together in 4 pairs of 2( convienient)( 2 of the 8 wires in this cable are now your + and - wire.  feed them through the shrinkwrap as far as you can. cut shrink wrap. then feed as far as you can, cut , ect.ect. I suggest shrink wrapping them because the insulation on the wires is thin. I have had no problems with this wire and it is extremely thin for 2 wires( even shrinkwrapped. (1\16 shrinkwrap). Especially if running a long distance.the shrinkwrap also provides an extremely good weather barrier for exterior applications.

I myself solder my conections and suggest that to all.

40 grit has saved my life sometimes =[
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