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*theone* 
Copper - Posts: 68
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 12, 2005
Location: Canada
Posted: November 25, 2005 at 4:09 AM / IP Logged  

Any tips or tricks on making connections. Crimp or solder? Where do you prefer to tap in( splice wire or harness/fuse block? )

Any and all opinions would be appreciated

riceman 
Copper - Posts: 109
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 14, 2004
Posted: November 26, 2005 at 11:28 PM / IP Logged  

Always soilder when possible. But if you have to t-tap then use the right color tap. Sometimes u just cant get to that one wire that's way the heck up there. All installers know what I'm talking about.

KPierson 
Platinum - Posts: 3,527
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: April 14, 2005
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: November 27, 2005 at 12:45 AM / IP Logged  

I've never used a Ttap in a car.  I've always managed to get to all the wires I've needed.  Then again, I have really small girly hands.  Usually, I have found, it is harder to actually solder a hard to get to wire then it is to strip it.  For that reason, I always kept a solder gun on hand for 99% of my connections, and then a pencil type for those hard to get to guys.

I just had a guy mail back a product today for a warranty repair that he had installed in his vehicle.  Our products come with 20 guage wire, and he used yellow butt splices on the harness.  I cut them all out, soldered all his wires, and actually heat shrinked them.  I'm sure he will be surprised when he sees that.   :)

I never use heat shrink in an install, I just happened to have some sitting by me today and figured I would use it.  For all my solder joints I ONLY juse Scotch 33+ black tape.  Don't mess with the cheap stuff, its not worth the time.

Kevin Pierson
*theone* 
Copper - Posts: 68
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 12, 2005
Location: Canada
Posted: November 27, 2005 at 3:20 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks for all the replies. Any ideas about a good soldering gun/pencil that I should buy?

Once again thanks a bunch

cloneman315 
Member - Posts: 24
Member spacespace
Joined: November 27, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: November 27, 2005 at 3:52 PM / IP Logged  

i have been installing since 1993 and never really have problems i use brown 3 m brown scotchlocks thats right scotchlocks,  most people  hate them because the dont know how to use  them right,the browns work very well on large ign wires and all other wires i solder. t  taps suck with a t tap there is 3 possible connections that can go  bad , and i have seen them espacially on colums when a customer tilts his wheel they come unpulgged,and since they are not a solid connection on a heavy draw circuit ex ford heater they will build resistance and melt.

KPierson 
Platinum - Posts: 3,527
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: April 14, 2005
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: November 27, 2005 at 5:55 PM / IP Logged  

I used a Craftsman gun (I hate the Wellers which everyone else seems to like). 

My pencil is a Pace, which is digitally controlled.  It rocks.  :)

Kevin Pierson
b-roy 
Copper - Posts: 56
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 21, 2005
Location: Canada
Posted: November 27, 2005 at 10:14 PM / IP Logged  

Never used taps and only solder tach, security connections ( passlock etc) or wires in the vehicle that have to be cut. Strip a good chunk, wrap it tight as can be , being generous with the amount of wire to wrap and tape it tight.

dualsport 
Silver - Posts: 983
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 27, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: November 28, 2005 at 5:33 PM / IP Logged  
If you tap into a line and wrap your wire on it, just keep in mind you have to make sure you give it enough heat to get the inner wire up to temperature and start flowing.
When you can't see the inner wire, it's easy to think you've got enough heat to the joint because the outside wire is fully flowing- if you stop there, you might end up with a circle connection around the target wire and an intermittent connection. If you can strip back enough insulation to see the inner wire, you're better off, in order to confirm the solder flowed properly.
If you have a regular place to work with an outlet, wired is the best way to go, but if you have to work in places on the go, a butane soldering iron is very handy-   I have a Weller, which cost me more like $100, but it's been worth it for the convenience of not having to deal with extension cords. The Weller gives off a neat rising pitch whistle as it warms up too- bonus! Sounds like an air raid- Connections -- posted image.
5150azn 
Silver - Posts: 584
Silver spacespace
Joined: June 21, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: November 28, 2005 at 5:49 PM / IP Logged  
I solder and heat shrink my wires if I am installing for a customer.
If it is my car only twist and tape. Sometimes don't even twist.
lolConnections -- posted image. Connections -- posted image.
Tell the Snap-On guy I'm not here!
auex 
Platinum - Posts: 5,041
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: December 23, 2002
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: November 28, 2005 at 7:32 PM / IP Logged  
Strip, military tap, solder, then tape every connection(except starter kills).
As for irons, I love my Blue Point but hate the 1 year warranty.
Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.
I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.
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