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Fans, plexiglass for amp rack/bandpass box?


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hex0rz 
Copper - Posts: 94
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 01, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 05, 2005 at 11:09 PM / IP Logged  

Well, you sure are right about some of those things. But I forgot to tell you a few things.

MTX and Xtant sure are some smarty pants. Both of my amps are the new TA series. Both are 3401. These already have a built-in fan that adjusts its speed depending on the temp. Combine that with two fans in a small space, I think I should be good.

I decided that I will put some sort of material under the amps to deaden the vibration and noise. But what? Is Dynomat the only solution? It seems so since its a rubber...

I have decided to make this enclosure a vented one instead. Many people have told me not to go the bandpass route. Simply too much hassle trying to make things right with it... I will agree since I never had exp. with bandpass boxes.

The enclosure takes up almost all of the back of the cab. Only space I have left is on the sides and top.  It really is too late for you to help with modifying dimensions since I already have the wood cut. I know, stupid me. But I solved most of my problems except for ONE.

Plexiglass... Really, the problem is how thick and how to keep it from vibrating. I was thinking 1/4 inch plexi to cover over the amps. I dont see why it would'nt work. Besides the fact of the subs making it flex? Would they make it flex?

Well, this is my idea on how to make this work. Around the perimeter, the top MDF is cut back all the way so it is only ehh, a couple or so inches. Lay Dynomat on the wood and then lay the plexiglass on this. Then,  screw it down nice and tight. Now, with the box being so long, the middle will shake. So, instead of putting a piece of wood there to brace it, I have little sections of MDF throughout the amp enclosure to secure the plexiglass down and keep it from flexing and vibrating and whatnot. Oh ya, and the pieces also have Dynomat on them too. Tell me, whats the opinion guys?

dwarren 
Platinum - Nominee - Posts: 1,811
Platinum - Nominee spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: December 03, 2004
Location: California, United States
Posted: December 05, 2005 at 11:55 PM / IP Logged  

The most important thing to do when mounting amps on boxes is to place the feet, (at least two of the srcews for the amp) over a main brace in the box, like a divider or a wall. You are on the right track as it is. I don't think there will be much of a problem with using pads or dynamat beneath the amp. Heat is not dissapated from the bottom of the amp, rather the heat sink or fins, usually located on the top or sides of the amp.

Check out the diagram half way down the page here for proper mounting... http://www.bcae1.com/amplfier.htm

hex0rz 
Copper - Posts: 94
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 01, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 06, 2005 at 12:16 AM / IP Logged  

The heat sink on the MTX TA amps are on the top... Well thats where the intake is and then they exhaust out the sides.

I'll only have one bracing in the sub box. And that is right in the middle. So there is no way it can be mounted on the brace. Although, I have heard about putting little wooden blocks under the wood of the amp mount and bolt the amp down to these blocks. Would that still work?

Vehicle: Mazda B2200 1989 X-Cab
Audio System:
1. (2) MTX TA3401
2. (2) MTX Thunder 7500
3. (1) MTX TA3202
4. Eclipse Fujitsuten SC8264 Component series
5. Pioneer Premier DEH-P770MP
hex0rz 
Copper - Posts: 94
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 01, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 06, 2005 at 12:20 AM / IP Logged  

Oh, wait two more things! I sure wish this forum would let us edit our existing posts...

Still sticking with the same idea as previously stated above this post, put wooden blocks ontop of the amps rack so the amps sit on these wooden blocks. Would'nt that deaden it tremendously since there are only just these small 4 points contacting the amp?

And forgot to also re-emphasize what thickness of plexiglass should I use to cover the amp rack?

Vehicle: Mazda B2200 1989 X-Cab
Audio System:
1. (2) MTX TA3401
2. (2) MTX Thunder 7500
3. (1) MTX TA3202
4. Eclipse Fujitsuten SC8264 Component series
5. Pioneer Premier DEH-P770MP
dwarren 
Platinum - Nominee - Posts: 1,811
Platinum - Nominee spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: December 03, 2004
Location: California, United States
Posted: December 06, 2005 at 12:20 AM / IP Logged  

How about lining the amps against the back of the box? That way you can use the rear wall as a support.

You better get pics up of your progress, that way we can hassle you moreFans, plexiglass for amp rack/bandpass box? - Page 3 -- posted image. 

hex0rz 
Copper - Posts: 94
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 01, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 06, 2005 at 12:37 AM / IP Logged  

Bwahaha. I was thinking of use the back portion also. No go... The dimensions of the box and the amount of space I have in the vehicle is already to its maximum. That and the face pieces of the sub box extend further than the box so it can be a "pre-assembled amp rack." If you can picture it... I guess I should make a pic for you in MSPaint, haha!

I'll try my best to get the project documented, but it won't be happening anytime soon since I have to use my brothers neighbors power tools. And he is a truck driver, and I have to work all this week until MONDAY!!! NO! This is too long to wait to get started... :(

Vehicle: Mazda B2200 1989 X-Cab
Audio System:
1. (2) MTX TA3401
2. (2) MTX Thunder 7500
3. (1) MTX TA3202
4. Eclipse Fujitsuten SC8264 Component series
5. Pioneer Premier DEH-P770MP
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