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clifford concept 200


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GReddyboy 
Member - Posts: 48
Member spacespace
Joined: July 24, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: December 12, 2005 at 6:46 AM / IP Logged  
Orginally the alarm was installed by authorized dealer for about a year then removed and installed into a different car by me. After it was installed by me i added remote start, smartsiren to it.Then half a year passed the parking lights stopped working.
I haven't looked at it until another year and half pass, i thought it was the wiring connections; but it was the brain unit, tested output of the parking light wires and nothing. I also found the power wire on the plug going into the unit has its plastic around the pin melted but the pin is still getting 12 volt, also the alarm works because it uses another power wire for the unit. So this might be the power for the parkinglight relay i believe? The wierd thing i still here the relay clicking when i arm and disarm the car. Currently im trying to find a used unit brain from the concept 200 or intelliguard 7000 so i can plug it right in, because i did a lot of work wiring the alarm (took out dash) Was wondering if theres anything in the unit i can fix?
Hope you guys can help me out, also anyone know if the g5 series from clifford are any good compared to the g4, do they still have normally open starter and ignition kill? I'm just under the impression the newer g5 series are cheaper units since they were bought by dei, thus not as superior. Help me decide if i should get g5 the intelliguard 850 or even ag5. Oh and does anyone got install manuals of the g5 i want to see what it has to offer because i'm still not getting enough specific information on it. thanks
cosmoworks 
Copper - Posts: 144
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 02, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: December 12, 2005 at 10:33 AM / IP Logged  
As you suspect, the RED / white power wire is for the parking lights. Did you fuse it with a 20 amp fuse?
The internal relay will still click because all it's trying to do is connect the RED / white wire to the parking light outputs. Just make sure the RED / white input going into the brain has +12 and it should work (unless you didn't fuse it, and it burnt out one of the traces in the brain.
GReddyboy 
Member - Posts: 48
Member spacespace
Joined: July 24, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: December 12, 2005 at 7:04 PM / IP Logged  
yes it is fused.Could the reason it fried because I always remote started my car which leaves parking lights on and left it running for 30 mins often?
Is there any other way I can rewire using a relay to make my parking lights go off when alarm is activated and arm/disarm? I wonder will it work if I tried connecting a relay to the siren, but I also would like to connect to my remote start that has a negative output when its remotely started so i can have my parking lights come on when car is remotely started as well.Maybe a combination of diodes and relays? Please help me out thanks
GReddyboy 
Member - Posts: 48
Member spacespace
Joined: July 24, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: December 12, 2005 at 7:56 PM / IP Logged  
I looked at the install manuals, and i know it would work if i use the yellow optional air horn wire, but its currently wire to my horn and Its program to honk only when the alarm is tripped. Anyone know if im able to use the black twinlead siren wires? Those pair of wires aren't use right now since i have the smartsiren which uses the dataport wires. There's two black twinleads wires (negative polarity) hopefully one of them works. If those wires work then would I need a diode to isolate it when I when I connect the negative out from the remote start output to a relay as well.
I think this is how i connect them, 30 to fused 12v 86 to 12v source 87 to parking lights and connect 85 to the negative out from remote start and also the black twinlead wire isolated with a diode. Hope you guys know what im talking about or trying to do. thanks
ringojam 
Copper - Posts: 215
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 10, 2003
Location: Manitoba, Jamaica
Posted: December 12, 2005 at 8:12 PM / IP Logged  
This is not the first time this has happend wit the g4 cliffords to me but usually it happens with the solaris models.Keep your old clifford and do wit out the park lights,clifford concept 200 -- posted image.
Jamaica home of the worlds fastest man.
GReddyboy 
Member - Posts: 48
Member spacespace
Joined: July 24, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: December 13, 2005 at 1:34 AM / IP Logged  
solaris is remote start right? so it does have something to do with amount of time leaving the remote start on which leaves parking lights on..
cosmoworks 
Copper - Posts: 144
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 02, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: December 13, 2005 at 11:30 AM / IP Logged  
Doubtful you fried the relay by using remote start alot. Relays do go bad, and my guess it that maybe the internal relay just got shot.
Don't use the twin black leads! Those outputs are AC, not DC. My suggestion is to disconnect the yellow output wire from the horn and use that to trip a relay for the parking lights, and live without the horn. Only problem will be when you silent arm.. the parking lights won't flash.
GReddyboy 
Member - Posts: 48
Member spacespace
Joined: July 24, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: December 13, 2005 at 6:15 PM / IP Logged  
I guess thats the only choice then, but couldn't I still leave the horn connected as well? Would I need a diode to isolate it?
GReddyboy 
Member - Posts: 48
Member spacespace
Joined: July 24, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: December 13, 2005 at 6:20 PM / IP Logged  
oh and if it was say a viper alarm could i use the siren wires for trip a relay for parking lights? Only the clifford uses the ac current for the siren wires right? thanks again
GReddyboy 
Member - Posts: 48
Member spacespace
Joined: July 24, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: December 13, 2005 at 6:22 PM / IP Logged  
I forgot to ask if I need a diode which one do I use and how pointing which way also how many amps do I need?...
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