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Building a power inverter


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j_darling2007 
Copper - Posts: 210
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Posted: December 21, 2005 at 9:44 PM / IP Logged  
Yeah, its the old school PS2.  But even if it ran at 9 volt, I would just have to add a resistor to the circuit, how many ohm would the resistor have to be to drop the voltage to 9 volts.
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geepherder 
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Posted: December 22, 2005 at 8:01 AM / IP Logged  
It's not that simple since the load on the ps2 would be constantly changing.  Check to see if it runs on 12 volts as suggested before.
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haemphyst 
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Joined: January 19, 2003
Location: Michigan, Bouvet Island
Posted: December 22, 2005 at 12:53 PM / IP Logged  
Jay T wrote:

Quick question.....

do the inverters we buy for our vehicles use Pulse Width Modulation for the DC to AC? or is the circuitry dependent on the quality / cost

Yes. Nearly all inverters run usimg the PWM method of conversion. I say nearly all, because if I say "all", someone will call me, and I can't say for CERTAIN that they do all run this way... The frequency of the pulses varies in more expensive units, and as you move closer to a true sine-wave inverter (the most expensive ones), your pulse frequency will be higest of all the types. Nearly all of the inexpensive inverters you will buy today are either square wave or modified-sine wave inverters, and can VERY EASILY contribute noise to an AC powered system running in a 12VDC environment, especially if interconnected to the 12 volt accessories.
j_darling2007 wrote:
Yeah, its the old school PS2. But even if it ran at 9 volt, I would just have to add a resistor to the circuit, how many ohm would the resistor have to be to drop the voltage to 9 volts.
WRONG. A simple resistor would work, but it would be a bad idea. If you know the CONTINUOUS current requirements of the device, you can pick a fixed-value resistor. While geepherder (below) is correct, it is not going to change THAT much. A fixed resistor will give one voltage at engine-off battery voltages, and another (higher) at engine-running battery voltage. A much better solution would be a three-terminal fixed voltage Voltage regulator. Do a search on the 'net for "7909 voltage regulator". Put 4 in parallel on a circuit board, and be done with it. 4 of them will give you 4A of continuous output current, regardless of the input voltage from 9 to 37 VDC - seems MADE for automotive applications, doesn't it?. If you were to add heatsinks, you could have as much as 6A of current. If your game machine runs from 12 VDC, search for a 7912 three-terminal voltage regulator.
geepherder wrote:
It's not that simple since the load on the ps2 would be constantly changing. Check to see if it runs on 12 volts as suggested before.
(see above)
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
Ween 
Platinum - Posts: 1,364
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Joined: August 01, 2004
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: December 22, 2005 at 3:02 PM / IP Logged  

hi,

might a LM338 (5A) or LM350 (3A)  with a few resistors be just as easy...one part, no parallelling needed.  and you'd need to dissipate about 20 watts of heat, worse case.   are the part numbers 79xx or 78xx, negative or positive ?

mark

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