Is this the correct liquid nail for boxes

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chris(nj)

Member - Posts: 6

Joined: December 31, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: January 01, 2006 at 3:40 PM / IP Logged

I bought some liquid nails; Paneling; wood & foam molding tubes. That link shows what it is and is not recommended for. Is this the correct stuff or should i go back and get a different type of LN? Also, if I use polyfill, should I use a tacky spray adhesive to get the polyfill to adhere to the box walls?

chris(nj)

Member - Posts: 6

Joined: December 31, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: January 01, 2006 at 4:12 PM / IP Logged

also....this box is for a JL 10w6v2. The recommended size for the box per the jl site is 14.5x12x10.25. I attached what you may call a rendition of the box w/ the dotted lines representing the brace and cutout for the sub. Is that the style of brace that I should use? Or is there another recommended way to brace the box? Lastly, should I just increase the box by about 3/4" since I'll be using a spare piece of mdf in there? Thanks in advance!! Is this the correct liquid nail for boxes -- posted image.

Is this the correct liquid nail for boxes -- posted image.

2001~S10~xtreme~xcab

greg_jobes

Member - Posts: 36

Joined: November 09, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: January 01, 2006 at 5:18 PM / IP Logged

Hmm, well i cant say it wont work. But i've always used LN Subfloor, it's real strong and it fills gaps upto 1/8". You dont even need to seal the box after, just use your finger to spread the exess into the seams.

chris(nj)

Member - Posts: 6

Joined: December 31, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: January 01, 2006 at 7:12 PM / IP Logged

Thanks for the reply!.... I would like to get the low voc versions that LN offers, but they only appear to be sold in CA Is this the correct liquid nail for boxes -- posted image.

I'll probably build the box on tues or weds and wont be doing the actual install until probably saturday, so it should have enough cure time for the voc's to release enough where it wont affect the speakers. I guess its just a matter of whether or not that particular LN is strong enough to make a solid connection. Any idea on my other questions? Thanks again!

2001~S10~xtreme~xcab

luckydevil

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Posted: January 01, 2006 at 9:05 PM / IP Logged

I still like Gorilla Glue better even though it costs more.

stevdart

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Joined: January 24, 2004

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Posted: January 01, 2006 at 10:59 PM / IP Logged

LN projects adhesive is easier to use for this type of project and is available everywhere. And your brace looks good...you just have to figure the displacement of the wood and adjust your box to compensate. The best way with the brace pictured is to first figure the displacement of the solid baffle, and then figure the displacement of the circle that was cut out and subtract. A square cutout, while technically not as strong, will still make a very good brace and would be much easier to calculate displacement.

Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

dwarren

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Joined: December 03, 2004

Location: California, United States

Posted: January 01, 2006 at 11:09 PM / IP Logged

What about good old Titebond?

I've used both products and neither one of the boxes has come un-glued.

gus1

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Joined: October 15, 2003

Location: Canada

Posted: January 01, 2006 at 11:20 PM / IP Logged

Yup... titebond works quite nicely. The only thing that comes unglued around here is me once inawhile.

Gus

Wherever I go, that is where I end up......

coppellstereo

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Joined: November 21, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: January 02, 2006 at 12:53 AM / IP Logged

titebond is amazing.

chris(nj)

Member - Posts: 6

Joined: December 31, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: January 02, 2006 at 12:57 AM / IP Logged

Thanks guys! I think the last question I have for now is if I need to figure any displacement for the polyfill or not and does it need a spray adhesive on the inside walls to stick it to?

2001~S10~xtreme~xcab

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