lesser known Viper 791xv wire connections

I am going to be installing a Viper 791xv into a 1998 Chevy K1500 tomorrow, and while I am perfectly comfortable with the basic connections(pwr, gnd, ign, door pin, ect.) What I am really curious about is the connections that DEI lists in their manual with very little description to their exact operation. The 2nd unlock output, I know that it works so that if you press the unlock button a second time it puts out a pulse on this wire. But why have it when you can also program output 5 to be a second unlock output?? Neutral saftey switch input, does it even need to be hooked up in an automatic vechile? I know that my truck will not even start if it isn't in either P or N and I certinly don't leave it parked in gear anyway. Can it just be left unhooked? Perminatly tied to ground? Status output/rear defogger, how does it work? Does it just go to latched whenever the remote start is running? Pulse when the start is requested? I don't need this output, but for other people's future reference what is its exact operation? Last but not least, what is the proper procedure to set the shock sensor? A link to a write up would help. What direction to you turn the screw to make it less sensitive? For those of you who have installed a Viper alarm in the old body style Chevy's where do usually mount the module to keep it up and out of the way? I think thats all the questions that I have for now. Thank you, Conrad

- 2nd unlock is only used with cars that have drivers door pririty built into the factory keyless system, or if you've gone straight to the lock motor on the driver side to set up driver door priority -Neutral safety switch should be tied to a neutral wire if available. The neutral wire is one that shows a ground when the selector is in either P or N. The BLACK/ white neutral safety wire needs to see a ground for the remote start to operate. -The rear defog/status output wire is selectable in the programming. It can be a status wire, showing a ground whenever the remote start is active. It can also be selected for a 5 or 10 min latched output after remote start is activated. -Shock sensor: now here's a hot topic that's been debated many times. The manual says you'll get the best result using a wire tie and strapping it to a large wire bundle under the dash. That's also the method that has provided the best results for me. The adjustment screw increases sensitivity when turned clockwise and reduces sensitivity when turned counter-clockwise. To set it, just arm the alarm and give the front or rear bumper a firm bump with a fist. You may also try the same thing on the door frames, just be sure you don't dent the metal. It should require a jolt equal to what it would take to smash a window in. Life moves pretty fast; if you don't stop and look around once in a while; you could miss it.

Thank you for the help with all of it. That clears up a lot of the detail questions that I had. On the shock sensor, I'll give it a try. I am definatly going to set it a little on the reduced side of what I need it to be set to as I hate to hear an alarm going off. Also I had a little bit of trouble with my last alarm's shock sensor, it was a Crimestopper brand one and when ever it would get cold out (talking -10 and below) it would seem to always set off false warn away alarms, all the time no matter what the sensitivity was set to. I finally just unplugged it and went with out. Any guess as to why it would have done that?? Any chance the DEI one will end up doing the same thing on me?? Thankx Conrad