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How to Upgrade the Big Three


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Mad Scientists 
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Posted: April06, 2006 at 5:31 PM / IP Logged  

The first gen VW Rabbit used a rubber mounting bushing for the alternator.. common problem was bad grounding. Fix was to run a ground strap from the alternator housing to the engine block. Don't know if others manufacturers do the same thing but I saw enough problems with the VWs to remember it, and to check for voltage drop from both alt housing to engine block and alt housing  to bat negative.

I've seen factory ground side wiring to run from battery negative to chassis, and another wire from bat neg to engine block. Then a connecting ground strap from the engine block to the chassis, just to make sure. 

The main point of my post was to point out that resistance measurements aren't very good at checking for bad connections.. I've seen mentioned elsewhere on the site that up to 0.5 ohms is acceptable.. what's the voltage drop across a 0.5 ohm resistance with 25 amps?.. does it look like something anyone would like to measure on their own car?

Jim

jt824 
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Posted: April24, 2006 at 1:29 AM / IP Logged  
So when ungrading the big three I am adding wiring to the existing 3 locations and leaving the factory wiring intact correct?
DYohn 
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Posted: April25, 2006 at 11:56 AM / IP Logged  

jt824 wrote:
So when upgrading the big three I am adding wiring to the existing 3 locations and leaving the factory wiring intact correct?

That's the way I describe it, yes.  You CAN replace the OEM wiring if you choose as long as you use large enough gauge to supply the normal vehicle loads PLUS the sound system load.

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specvsentra 
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Posted: May10, 2006 at 7:02 PM / IP Logged  
when installing the big 3 what size fuse or circuit breaker should i install between the alternator positive and battery positive leads??
aznboi3644 
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Posted: May12, 2006 at 7:51 PM / IP Logged  
In my 98 Explorer its pretty sweet. It has its own fuse holder for the alternator to the battery at 150amps.
soljah 
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Posted: May13, 2006 at 3:05 PM / IP Logged  
I want to upgrade the BIG 3, but I have a dilemna.  I can't put any additional wires on my positive battery terminal.  I do have an optima yellow top battery with both top posts and side posts.  Do you think it would be a problem to use both at the same time?  Any input would be greatly appreciated.
DYohn 
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Posted: May14, 2006 at 10:30 AM / IP Logged  

specvsentra wrote:
when installing the big 3 what size fuse or circuit breaker should i install between the alternator positive and battery positive leads??

While it is not 100% necessary to do this, it is always a good idea to fuse any power carrying cable, especially those you have added to your vehicle.  Place a fuse or braker close to the battery side of the cable rated at about 80% of the cable's load carrying capacity.

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nubiannupe 
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Posted: May26, 2006 at 5:40 PM / IP Logged  
Something I wanted to address and, hopefully, get input on in regards to this post (thanks, btw, to DYohn). On #6, it was mentioned that you need to hold the solder against the iron and melt it into the strands. However, I was taught that this invariably creates a "cold solder" joint, and instead you should heat the wire - allowing the solder to melt into the wire. Any input/thoughts on this??
G. Rick (aka; Tha "R")
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electrostatic 
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Posted: May26, 2006 at 7:10 PM / IP Logged  
when i solder ring terminals or any connection for that matter that acts as a heat sink i'll apply solder directly to my irons tip to improve heat transfer and then when the connection gets hot enough i'll apply solder to the connection.
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jazzcustom131 
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Posted: June03, 2006 at 3:18 PM / IP Logged  

about soldering... I think there's several variations of what's right. I was taught, to do as DYohn begins. aplly a bit of solder to the tip.

but when adding the remainder of the solder, feed the solder oppostie from where the iron is, to ensure a proper job. It makes sure all the metal is hot, and ready to bond. So if the iron is in your left hand, feed with the righ hand, 180 from where the iron is. and I don't mean on the other END of the cable, just the other SIDE from where the iron rests.

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