the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

Ford Windstar Premium Audio Solution - FYI


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
2simpleusa 
Member - Posts: 2
Member spacespace
Joined: March 05, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: March 19, 2006 at 6:22 PM / IP Logged  

Hi all,

Just wanted to pay back help received, and give some advice on the installation of aftermarket stereo in a 95 or similar year Ford Windstar with premium audio.

The original radio/cd unit has four connections: flat 8-pin plug (feeds unit with power and control), rectangular 8-pin block (speaker connection to remote amp), rectangular 6-pin block (no idea, but guessing it feeds the rear audio controls), a 2-pin block (again, no idea what it does).

The factory amp is installed behind the glove box.  Open the door, and spring the rubber buffer stops inwards to allow the door to swing down out of the way.  The amplifier is now visible.  The 8-pin speaker block from the radio/cd connects to the amp, and another oblong connector exits the amp and feeds the 4 speakers. 

I was using a Metra install kit (I'm sure you can use others but since the Metra tech support were superb and helped answer the crucial questions, I'll use thir part numbers.  Using the 70-1704 (the standard Ford 8-pin flat connector), hook up the power and ground connections. 

The amplifier bypass cable (70-5513) can be used if your amp has the matching input and output connectors as provided by Metra.  Mine didn't: the input was a smaller 8-pin rectangular unit (matching the unit from the radio/cd unit).  The output did match the Matra cable.

OK, the trick!  Cut off the input end of the Bypass Cable (that's the end that doesn't match).  Hook up the new radio speaker wires directly to the Bypass cable.  You might be lucky and not have to extend the 8 speaker wires.  I was fortunate and could join the speaker connections from the new radio to the Bypass cable.  This action gives you a direct connection from the new stereo to the installed 4 speakers. 

The other cable provided in the Premium Audio harness kit (79-5512), an 8-pin rectangular unit, is not needed since you have taken the speaker feeds from the new unit directly to the 'old' output from the amp.

You do loose the rear audio control with the above install, but if that's a problem, get a stereo unit with a remote!

My install worked flawlessly, hope your's does too!

Tony Gordon

kgerry 
Platinum - Posts: 3,455
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: February 07, 2004
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
Posted: March 20, 2006 at 9:32 AM / IP Logged  
actually Metra does make an appropriate wiring kit for this vehicle... using the proper one eliminates the need to buy one and then start hacking and slashing it to make it work..... i think you would have found that the 70-5511 would have worked fine as is.....
Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer
Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979
2simpleusa 
Member - Posts: 2
Member spacespace
Joined: March 05, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: March 21, 2006 at 12:47 AM / IP Logged  

You could be right, but the 70-5511 is the standard Ford power/control cable: this works fine with both standard and premium audio setups: this cable does not need hacking.  The cable that needs hacking is the 70-5513, amplifier bypass, which has to be cut to connect with the premium amp. output to the 4-speaker setup in the 95 Windstar.  Now I'm sure that Metra does make a cable that allows the premium amp bypass to be conneted via the  8-pin double row black rectangular block with the 8-pin flat speaker output, but at 3:00pm on a cold Sunday in Michigan, we were pleased to be able to hack and succeed!

kgerry 
Platinum - Posts: 3,455
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: February 07, 2004
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
Posted: March 21, 2006 at 8:42 AM / IP Logged  

i'm not being critical, just trying to understand why you had to cut the cable... the 5510 is the same plug as the 5511 except that it comes with 4 RCS'a instead of just speaker line level inbput... they work great, i've used dozens.... also, the 5511 works fine on this vehicle and you just hook it up to the new HU's speaker leads.....

did the HU you put in NOT have 4 channel RCS pre-out? if it did shouldnt the 5510 have just plugged right in?

ahhh...ding (the little lightbulb went on)... you were not doing an amp integration... you wanted (for some reason) to bypass the factory amp.... gotcha.....  i use these plugs all the time for factory amp integration and they work slick as poop, that's why i couldnt understand why you would have to do any hacking and slashing...sorry Tony....see it pays to re-read things at 7:00 am on a cold Tuesday in Saskatchewan!!  lol

Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer
Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979

Sorry, you can NOT post a reply.
This topic is closed.

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Saturday, December 14, 2024 • Copyright © 1999-2024 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer