New Stereo suggestions

Where did you get the fascination that you need one battery and one cap for each sub. Do a search for "caps" From where I and many otrher people stand, caps are for looks. build your system right, and you don't need them.

you say yall are fairly inexperienced...you're taking a hades of a leap out there even considering biulding a custom dash. but don't let me hold you back For now, i'd leave the factory there, work that out when you've got more knowledge under your belt. Tackling an entire vehicle at one time can make for poor results.

Amps, depends on the speakers, you can't decide that until you have your speakers. Generally, I enjoy my 6x9's on a 4 channel (bridged mind you) and subs on mono or 2 channels.

Speakers...way to open a can of worms man. I'm gonna be liberal and give you my opinion. JBL, Memphis, Pioneer, Alpine, Planet Audio, Blaupunkt (slightly older stuff) and maybe 1 or 2 others are on my preffered list. Lots of folks like MB Quart. lots of folks hate Planer Audio (sorry, can't get past the Alpine PT and Planet Audio PT sitting beside each other, Alpine had 3 type r's, planet had 2 12's.... it was like the alpine wasn't even there.)

Do however reply or something with a more detailed list of equipment you may already have. PUNCTUATION is a nice thing. If you don't repost it, I probably will.

sorry about the punctuation guys.

speaking of failing class i was in my computer programming coarse with about 30 seconds till teh bell rang when i wrote it, so thats why it is soo crummy.

In answer to the 2 caps and 2 batteries one for each sub the only reason i figured this is because the local stereo shop here just put 2 of these subs each running of a 100/1 amp in my neighbors truck. they used the same configuration and they know more than i do so i assumed to copy them.

more pics of his silverado at http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2190579/4 but back to the task at hand.

now that i have time to actually describe in full what we want to do ill expand alot.  as of right now we have nothing but a 5 yr old kenwood deck that will 99.99% be junked or sold for about 10$s lol.  the blazer is bare it's going to be rhinolined soon and then were going to start.  the idea of a custom dash is probably not going to happen just because of the hassle.  MY friends father builds custom fishing boats www.gausebuiltboats.com for a living so that's what tools were working with mainly and i can get a decent price on MDF board from the stereo shop since i have some friends up there.  My friends dad is also a JL dealer but he uses the marine line and we are not 100% sure if he can get the mobile line or not but if not then i'll prob go talk to the guys at Auto Audio.  He's doing most of the wiring since he does it for his dad in the boats we figure that we should be okay there.  also the marine line helps with finding deep cycle batteries at a really good price.

soo here's the master plan for the stereo in almost decent grammer sorry english grammar isn't one of my highpoints.  i'm hoping to take the time and research to do this right the first time so that A. i don't kill expensive equipment and B. i am hoping for this to win some local stereo shows when they come up. 

I know this is a huge project but, what we lack in experience we make up for in determination. 

really ruff picture of what im goin for.

first off this is going to be one big flush unit. it should have 3 or 4 seperate parts so one easier to take in and out and two easier to access one problem if it comes up.

what i want to do is build 2 identical units on each side of the bed.  the reason i want to use 13w7's is because i already know they sound amazing and his dad like mentioned is a dealer for JL so might as well use the best (or my opinion atleast).  we want to build a ported angled box in the back so that the subs stick out from the main unit a little and point towards driver but not enough to block out his tailgate to much.  then after that box is made we plan to build onto it since the subwoofers are central here we figured we should work our way from the back to the front.  the first thing i figured that would be hidden inside the unit is thecapacitator but since im reading more about how useless they are it may be a step to skip. then because this is an older body where the wheel well sticks up through bed/trunk and then this unit will go over that and stop flush right under where camper is.  Now the amp is tricky because what i had hoped to do may not be the best plan as far as heat goes. i want to build a indention from the unit and mount amp inside a little but then cover it with plexiglass and maybe put in some LED's in which case we'd spring the extra 70$s and get chrome amps. I figured the JL amp's cooling tecnology might be enough or we may need to mount fans above the amp to get airflow.  and that little section would be mounted right above the wheel well in the unit.  then after that i figured a second battery for the AMP would be appropriate again wired in the unit soo it is hidden from sight.  then last but not least to the unit the rear speakers. the amp for these will probably be mounted under the seat.and might idea for this is probably a 6x9 in a box that will be mounted to a round plate with holes drilled in all around thats set on another circle with matching holes thats mounted to the unit and use one or two thumb screws that go into the holes but come out easy enough to rotate the speaker to any direction.and then thats it.  also we are going to build kickpanels for the front and probably put components. 

 still not sure if i should use 4ch amp for all of them or 2 channel amp for rears and 2 ch for fronts. will probably end up using a kenwood KDCX-790 http://www.kenwoodusa.com/products/ListProduct.aspx?k1=2&k2=46&k3=172&pr=2358 .  im using it in my civic now and it seems to work well if you have any other suggestions for around 250$s that are better im open to suggestions since nothings been bought. im not to sure on how to get the loudest mids and highs ive always stayed stock because the loudest subwoofers i can afford are 400watt D3 diamond audio's and i didn't relaly need to upgrade interrior to keep up with it.  my car http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2216333/2 all work was done by stereo shop because i didn't really feel ready to experiment and my friends there didn't charge me labor so i let them go for it.

thank you for your time and thoughts.

A friend of mine just bought 2 12"s in a sealed box.  I am not sure of the specifications because i just looked at it really quick but he wants to put the subwoofers in a ported box and i opted to take this as a learning experience.  This will be the first box i attempt to build. (gotta start sometime lol) so I want to make sure it will sound good before he blows 60-70$s on materials.  what i was wondering is if it would sound good if you built a vented box where the vents protrude from the box instead of using a maze for that flush look.

for example if the box looked like this ...

So i was hoping if anyone has seen/heard anything like this before and if it sounded good.  also when calculating the box volume of this would i include the ports in my calculation even though they are not exactly part of the central box ?  any suggestions appreciated, and if you think it's the dumbest idea you've ever heard feel free to tell me. 

on the second box with the protruding vents ... would a vented box even be practical for this...

2 sony XS-L1235 (i think this is the subs he has but i didn't want to take out of box to check.) 200w rated input, 800 max., 4 ohms, Sens. 89dB, Freq. response 20-2,500 Hz. Mass: 11 lb. 11 oz. Gold connectors.

and an EXM 702 amp It has a rated output of 70 watts x 2/ 160 watts x1 with a Max Power Output of 140 x 2 /400 watts x 1. Box Contains Manual and wiring. It is the Sony Express Series (Mosfet).  2 channel bridgable amp low boost 40hz.

questions are will protruding vents work properly and is it even worth building a vented box or should he just keep them in sealed box.