2006 Honda Accord alarm issues

hey guys, i have a question to any of the new generation HONDA gurus out there. I was installing an alarm in a 2006 Honda Accord which consisted of a starter kill, parking lights, trunk pop, door triggers, door locks, and trunk trigger from a black widow 2900 alarm system. Now since then I have found out that the 05 and 06 honda accords have the newest style of factory immbolizer that honda is now using. from what i remember I was probing the ignition harness and some wires in the kick panel that I believe were YELLOW /GREEN stripe on it for the trunk pop trigger. My supervisor then grabbed my probe and shot 12v+ to one of the three Yellow/ Green wires in the driver side kick we heard a click in the mutliplex module of the car and on the second one we could hear the fuel pump turn on and on the third YELLOW /GREEN wire the trunk finaly popped. I end up finishing the alarm and im getting ready to pull the car out of the install bay and the car cranks but the motor does not turn over. i also notice that the green key inside the gauge cluster is flashing which indicated that it is either the wrong key or the immobilizer is not picking up the signal. so we call the dealership, the cars not moving or starting so we end up towing it to the dealership they try to re program the keys but the car is not communicating with the scanner tool in which they then do further diagnostics and tell us that the ECU is somehow "fried" Can annyone tell me how this possibly happened? Also when they went in initially to fix the problem which they thought was the immobilizer being reset the car did not picc up the signal at all. Other than using a DMM next time is there anythign specific to the new Hondas that I should worry about. Such as is remote start possible or was this just a by chance accident. please contact me asap thanks guys.For NorCal Installations I specialize in protecting the Import cars in our area since they are the most jacked. Email me if you need something customized for your car. kill switches and all

I work on brand-new cars for dealerships all day, all I use is a Power Probe II LED-type test light. And I've done my share of 2003-up Accords. The only times I've fried something it's been MY fault, not the test light's. Yes, there are quite a few YELLOW /GREEN wires in the kick panel on the Accord, and only one of them is for the trunk release. You probably know this by now, but you should not use the probe to inject power (or ground) into wires just to see what they will do..... you must test first. The first step would have been to connect your probe to the Honda's wire, then pop the trunk using the factory remote........the probe's light will tell you if it's the correct wire or not. If it's the correct wire, quickly label it with tape, or simply go ahead and strip it open and make your connection----BEFORE you have a chance to forget which one it is. -------------------------- So, that's pretty much the lesson------the ECM wasn't fried by the test light----------the ECM was fried by giving into the temptation to apply power to random wires and see what happens. I've done it before too; you're not alone. Those Power Probes are really cool toys.......and when you first get one, it's sort of fun to make the doorlocks go up and down without touching any buttons on the car. But if you're going to power up circuits in the car just for fun, test that it is the right wire, before doing so.

escustomz wrote: My supervisor then grabbed my probe and shot 12v+ to one of the three Yellow/ Green wires in the driver side kick we heard a click in the mutliplex module of the car ......

Here's the problem. Just as the other member's stated, it's not your fault, it's the supervisor's fault for probing a wire with a polarity on it.

Jeff

Velocity Custom Home Theater

Mobile Audio/Video Specialist

Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Velocity Motors wrote: escustomz wrote: My supervisor then grabbed my probe and shot 12v+ to one of the three Yellow/ Green wires in the driver side kick we heard a click in the mutliplex module of the car ...... Here's the problem. Just as the other member's stated, it's not your fault, it's the supervisor's fault for probing a wire with a polarity on it.

The fact that it was the supervisor's fault kinda makes me very worried.Tell the Snap-On guy I'm not here!

yea thats the same tool i use is the Power Probe II from the Snap On truck. i love that damn thing. so total damages so far are 850 for a new ECU and 126 for diagnostic, plus their not sure if it stops at the ECU could possibly be the new Mutliplex that the Hondas have next to the fuse box in the driver kick plus the immobilizer itself. Oh well im glad I work for a business that has liability insurance. No money out of my check, and im very thankful.    has anyone else done any remote starts on an 06' honda accord and how did it go? even on 05' id like to knowFor NorCal Installations I specialize in protecting the Import cars in our area since they are the most jacked. Email me if you need something customized for your car. kill switches and all

i had a problem on an 06 acura tsx where i used a test light and the fuse box somehow got fried the car ran but lights and all the check engine lights came on cost about $700 to fix. no such thing as a computer safe test light!!!!! but there so easy to use it sucks, always use a dmm especially new cars

Done tons of those vehicle ( Accord, Pilot, CR-V & new Civic's ) with no problems at all. They are very well layed out and easy to rn wires through.Jeff

Velocity Custom Home Theater

Mobile Audio/Video Specialist

Morden, Manitoba CANADA