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Sound Killers


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fuseblower 
Silver - Posts: 403
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Joined: June 25, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: May 11, 2006 at 9:38 PM / IP Logged  

I have a general question in regards to dynomating all doors of my car.  The front speaker and rear speakers are being used for mids/highs and the subs in the trunk.  Should I dynomat the doors or leave them as they are since they are not to produce any bass just mid/highs.  Here is what teh door currently looks like.

https://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h255/feezy_1906/CompleteDoor.jpg

stevdart 
Platinum - Posts: 5,816
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: January 24, 2004
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: May 11, 2006 at 10:01 PM / IP Logged  

Here are three very important reasons to damp the doors that contain mids: 

  • Quiets road and tire noise that otherwise interferes with the speaker output.  Cancellation is one of those negative interferences.
  • Provides greater dynamic punch to the mid response, increases db at the crossover range to the sub.
  • Stabilizes the door's sheet metal against the freqs from the sub, even though the sub is in the trunk.

At a minimum, cover the inside panel that is seen in the pic, including across the driver mounting area.  Cut out through the damping to fit the driver.  Seal it up tight.  Better, install a mounting baffle to the dynamatted door panel that is cut out for the driver.  Best, add damping (first!) to the outer door panel that you have to access through the little bit of holes available on the panel.  With any and all, caulk and tape openings and loose edges to prevent hiss and rattles from the door liner, etc.

The front door may have more access to the outer skin than that rear door shows.  The fronts are the priority since they are right next to you and should be afforded the greatest damping effort.  (Damping material is cut into narrow strips that can be managed piece-by-piece through the cutouts.)

Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
Phreak480 
Copper - Posts: 84
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Joined: June 12, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: May 11, 2006 at 10:12 PM / IP Logged  
actually on that panel it is very easy to dampen the outside skin as that inner panel is easily removed with bolts around the perimeter. I saw basically the same setup on a ford 500 and was super impressed.
kfr01 
Gold - Posts: 2,121
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Joined: April 30, 2003
Posted: May 11, 2006 at 10:59 PM / IP Logged  
For sound quality, I would deaden the front doors before deadening anything else. Deaden the outside skin and the inner panel. Double and tripple and quadruple layer until that door is dead as dead can be. Your ears will thank you.
Stevdart is the man; follow his advice to the letter.
New Project: 2003 Pathfinder
jt824 
Copper - Posts: 52
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Joined: March 17, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: May 12, 2006 at 8:09 AM / IP Logged  
good info

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