How to test for a bad lock actuator?

OK like 2 days ago for some odd reason my driver side actuator stopped working.  Went to try to unlock it with the key and almost broke the key as it was stuck so I did it by hand.  I went to check the wires with my DMM and can't get a good reading for some off reason.  This shouldn't have happened as it is almost a brand new universal SPAL kit, it was installed in January I believe.  I had unplugged the other 3 wires so that I can have driver priority unlock, so I reconnected them, and if I unlock the door the others follow, but the actuator still isnt unlocking the drivers door.  Is there something that I am missing that I need to test?  Why am I having trouble getting a reading on my DMM at the wires?  I should probably check at the central module, so I will do that, if any other suggestions come up, that would be great because I dont feel like paying about $24 shipped for one replacment SPAL motor because thats what I paid for my 4 door kit! lol

It is NOT unusual for a Actuator to go out..........If it is not installed correctly, as when the Actuator is extended to it's limit, or held in or out for to long of time.  It can cause overheating, broken parts, etc.  If it proves the Actuator is Fried ( good chance ).......then be sure you check the Push & Pull on the New one when you install it.  Also be sure the Actuator isn't being powered by a stuck Relay or Relay Module. ( been there before ) .......You want the least amount of movement with the shortest length of rod.  Even if you have to reposition it, it would be better then replacing every week.......... MO

Don't Learn from Others Mistakes

You Might Be the One That Knows.

Well pulled it out today and switched sides and well sure enough the damn module was dead after only a couple months, damn SPAL man, they are great just cant believe it went out that fast!!!  Now I need to find a replacement 5 wire SPAL for about $14 shipped anyone know a place or someone?