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Viper 791xv, no hook remote start?


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groggy23 
Copper - Posts: 67
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2006
Posted: May 21, 2006 at 12:07 PM / IP Logged  
I will be attempting to hook up a Viper 791xv this week.  It will be installed on a 2004 Nissan Altima which will need a bypass module IFF I hook up the remote start, but he doesn't want that feature.  So my 1st question will be can I hook up the rest of the components without using the remote start feature?  My 2nd question is all I would need to hook up are the following wires:  12v constant, 12v ignition switched, accessory.  What about the tach, door pin, and + parking light?
groggy23 
Copper - Posts: 67
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2006
Posted: May 21, 2006 at 12:55 PM / IP Logged  
I took a look over the connections page in the online manual. Thing is I'm not sure of what connections need or do not need to be made. Again for now, I'm not going to want to use the remote start. So I made a little chart of the connections and the locations.. please correct me if i am wrong in my assumptions for any of the connections. i need all your help.. Viper 791xv, no hook remote start? - Last Post -- posted image.
Viper 791XV wiring Altima 04 NOT USING remote start
Primary Harness (H1), 12-pin connector
(-) 500mA ARMED OUTPUT YES? CHASSIS GROUND?
(+)/(-) selectable light flash output YES? PARKING LIGHT
(-) remote start activation input NO?
(-) 200mA domelight supervision output NO?
(-) door trigger input, zone3 YES ANY DOOR TRIGGER
(-) multiplexed input, zone4 NO?
(+) door trigger input, zone3 NO
(-) ground YES CHASSIS GROUND
EMPTY
(+) siren output YES TO ALARM
(+) constant power input YES 12V CONSTANT IGN.
(-) 200mA channel 2 validity output NO?
Secondary Harness (H2), 6-pin connector
(-) factory disarm/special accessory output NO?
(-) factory rearm NO?
(-) programmable channel 4 output YES?
(-) channel 5 output YES?
(-) diesel wait to start input NO
(-) second unlock output NO?
door lock harness, 3-pin connector
(-) lock, (+) unlock output YES POWER LOCK/UNLOCK
EMPTY ----
(+) lock, (-) unlock output NO
remote start primary harness, 7-pin connector NO
(-) 200mA programmable IGN2/ACC2 relay turn on
(+) ignition input to alarm
(-) 200mA ignition relay turn-on
(-) 200mA accessory relay turn-on
(-) 200mA starter relay turn-on
(-) antigrind/ground when armed output
(-) 200mA status output
heavy gauge inline connector key switch interface NO?
(+) output to starter circuit
onboard starter kill (key side)
(+) high current 12v input
(+) output to accessory circuit
(+) output to primary ignition circuit
(+) high current 12v input
(+) output to second ignition circuit
(+) high current 12v input
remote start secondary harness (H3), 5-pin connector NO
(-) 200mA 2nd status/rear defogger - latched/pulsed
(-) hood pinswitch input, zone 1
(+) brake shutdown wire
tachometer input wire
(-) neutral safety switch input
Chris Luongo 
Platinum - Posts: 3,746
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: May 21, 2002
Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: May 21, 2006 at 1:39 PM / IP Logged  
The starter-kill feature is built into the outboard relay pack, right?
-armed out: no; you can use the starter kill built into the relay pack
-light flash: yes, + parking lights on that car (RED / blue at dash dimmer)
-rs activation: no
-domelight supervision: no; the Altima's domelight should turn on by itself when the doors are unlocked.
(However, if you connect this optional feature, it will flash the domelight when the alarm is triggered, to attract more attention.)
-negative door trigger: yes, connect to car's domelight wire
-zone 4 multiplex.....is it a blue wire?: yes; connect to car's trunk-trigger wire
-positive door trigger: no; that's mainly for Fords and newer Chryslers
-ground: yes, of course
-siren: yes; to red wire of siren
-channel 2: yes; to negative-trigger trunk-pop wire, at trunk-release switch on dashboard
SECONDARY HARNESSS:
None of those connections are necessary, unless you plan to use the other auxilary outputs to add special features, such as turning on/off the radio, headlights, neon undercar lights, etcetera
DOORLOCK HARNESS:
Yes, naturally you need both the green and the blue.......green is connected to the car's lock wire; blue to the unlock.
If the car has only one "auto" window, the lock wires are available at the BCM...........if it has two AUTO windows, go to the forums at carsound.com, and do a search for "nissan bcm"-----there is a trick that will save you much time.
XCRS satellite relay pack:
Connect the pink primary ignition. Cut the starter wire in half, and connect the green and black starter kill wires as described.
Since it is likely the car's owner will change his mind and desire remote start in the future......it is recommended that you leave all of the other wires long enough to reach the ignition wiring in the car......tape up their ends and zip-tie them to the car's ignition harness.......so it will be easy to go back in later to reconnect them.
SECONDARY HARNESS:
No need to connect any of those wires.
If you want the alarm to be triggered when a thief raises the hood, though, install and connect the hoodpin switch.
If the car has two AUTO windows, that means it has a factory alarm too-----you should be able to simply connect your Viper's hoodpin wire to the factory hoodswitch under the hood, making things easier.
RECOMMENDATION:
Keep all of the unused harnesses in a safe place, since it is higly likely the remote start feature will be added later.
Or, if you are making no attempt to hide or disguise the alarm brain, you might just plug in all those harnesses and let them sit there, so they cannot be lost.
groggy23 
Copper - Posts: 67
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2006
Posted: May 21, 2006 at 2:05 PM / IP Logged  
Awesome!!  Thank you much!  This clears up a lot.
groggy23 
Copper - Posts: 67
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2006
Posted: May 21, 2006 at 2:40 PM / IP Logged  

Ok great, I marked off what needs to be done.  Just a couple more questions.  For the remote start primary harness, 7-pin, I don't need to use that at all?  And, for the XCRS, I'm assuming you mean the heavy gauge inline connector key switch interface.  So I proceed to hook up the pink primary ignition circuit and I'm confused on that to do with the starter kill and rest of the wires.

And on the primary harness I use the same trunk trigger wire for both multiplexed zone 4 and 200mA channel 2 validitiy output?  Thing is my trunk release switch is located on the door itself.

And for the door lock harness im kinda confused on what to do there too.  I did find this at carsound:

""2003-2004 Nissan Altima

BCM is to the left of the steering column.
Lock-only is listed as pink in pin 37, and unlock-only is listed as brown in pin 44.
On models equipped with the factory alarm, these pins are empty. But if wires are added to these pins, they'll control arm/disarm and the doorlocks. Have not yet confirmed domelight turnon, or window control.


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