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Sub hookup


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bkcbuilder 
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Joined: May 21, 2006
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Posted: June 19, 2006 at 8:12 PM / IP Logged  

I have a Alpine F450 4 channel amp in my truck driving 4 JL Audio door speakers, how if possible could I wire up a 10" JL Audio 10W6 sub(DVC) using this amp? Wiring the amp and speakers was no problem, but the basics of subs is new to me, and this setup needs some low thump to me. I have the sub and box on the way, hope to wire up this weekend if possible, not really wanting to add another amp, that and I can't turn the existing setup past 1/2 way before my ears start to bleed.

Any help out there? Thanks Brian

forbidden 
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Posted: June 19, 2006 at 8:21 PM / IP Logged  
While yes there is a way it can be done, the disadvantages outweigh the benefits as compared to adding a second amp. Your best bet is to add the second amp for the ability to control the sub properly and protect all speakers in the system. If you would like me to go through the way that it can be done, I of course will do so (as time allows) or you can take my word on it and do it the right way, which is to add the second amp.
Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.
geepherder 
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Posted: June 21, 2006 at 8:53 AM / IP Logged  
If you were to run the rear speakers off the deck, you can bridge the amp across the rear channels.  If your deck has preouts for the sub, use those.  If not, then use the rear outputs and you can put a bass knob inline on the rca's.
My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.
forbidden 
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Posted: June 21, 2006 at 10:59 AM / IP Logged  

Ok, I'm bored and it is an hour before the shop opens.

This method of wiring is called simultaneous stereo / mono or 3way operation. The rear speakers hook to the normal 2 channels of the amp. The subwoofer is wired to the same channels of the amp with a twist. Connect the sub to the bridged outputs of these 2 channels.

A note here, if the amp is only stable to 2 ohm stereo, it will only be stable to 4 ohm mono so do not use anything but a 4 ohm load on the bridged channels. If you have a dvc 4 ohm sub, don't do it. If you have 2 8 ohm subs wired in parallel, go for it. The load must be 4 ohms.

Next you need to build yourself a passive crossover. A basic crossover is made of caps and coils.  A basic crossover in this case will be highpass for the main 2 channel speakers and lowpass for the subwoofer. Lets say that you have some 6x9's as the main speakers, you might want to build a basic 6db octave highpass crossover by wiring in a 200uf non polar mylar capacitor on the + lead of each main channel speaker.

A basic low pass crossover is wired in the same fashion as above. Now we will use a coil instead of a capacitor. A 6mh iron or air core coil will work for this application. No you have a basic hp / lp crossover and can use all 3 speakers on the back half of the amplifier.

A note here is that no active crossovers may be used, so turn the crossover in the amp to off, same with one that may be used in the cd player.

Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.
customsuburb 
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Posted: June 21, 2006 at 2:25 PM / IP Logged  

Forbidden's way would work well, but I think you would be happier if you just connected your rear speakers to the cd player's internal amp and bridged the rear channels of the alpine amp for the sub. That amp dosn't put out much power even when it's bridged, and your new sub's RMS power rating is probably 300 to 400 watts (not that it wouldnt sound good with much less power).

What I would do is try it the way geepherder and I described first. If you really miss the volume that you'll lose from your rear speaker being connected to your cd player's amp then you could try forbidden's method.

stevdart 
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Posted: June 21, 2006 at 11:26 PM / IP Logged  

forbidden wrote:
While yes there is a way it can be done, the disadvantages outweigh the benefits as compared to adding a second amp. Your best bet is to add the second amp for the ability to control the sub properly and protect all speakers in the system. .... take my word on it and do it the right way, which is to add the second amp.

Agreed.  Don't wring blood from your amp.  Let it perform.

Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
bkcbuilder 
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Posted: June 22, 2006 at 6:31 PM / IP Logged  

I've decided to go the second amp route. Now(remember, stereo technically challenged) specs on the sub say it performs optimally at 400 watts  at 4 ohms, the Alpine M650 seems to peak out there also, but is more costly....any other recommendations or would any cheapy work here since I'm already driving the others with a decent amp. No RCA outs on this HU(stock dodge navigation 6 disc), so I'm splicing into speakers going to first amp, any speaker work any better/worse to use...rear or front?

Lost of Q's...not alot of answers from me.....Brian

aznboi3644 
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Posted: June 22, 2006 at 6:49 PM / IP Logged  
How much do you want to spend?
stevdart 
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Posted: June 22, 2006 at 8:44 PM / IP Logged  

The sub is the 10W6v2, correct?  That's a dual 4 ohm sub, which should be parallel -wired to 2 ohms and used with a mono amp.  The sub's thermal all-day rating is 400 watts, so you should look for a mono class D amp that does around that at 2 ohms.  If what you find a good deal for states power output at 500 watts into 2 ohms, that would be fine.

Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

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