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corner sub box for JL 10W1v.2


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nickypass 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: July 24, 2006
Posted: July 26, 2006 at 10:30 AM / IP Logged  
I wanna do a corner sub box for the JL 10W1v.2 I bought last night. I REALLY want to do a corner loaded box...and I have searched and read for the last week...now I have a few questions...
I know you tape the area, mix the resin and hardener...then you just brush the resin on the tape....how does the resin stay on the verticle surfaces?
How many layers should you do when its in the car?
How long does it usually take for each layer to dry?
All I really have is a jigsaw (that I borrowed) is that okay for trimming the excess glass and the sub hole? (I have a vision of it splintering and cracking)
djfearny2 
Silver - Posts: 810
Silver spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: September 23, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: July 26, 2006 at 11:03 AM / IP Logged  
ok take tape tape up the whole area. get some spray glue and spray glue tin foil to the tape only. this will prevent the car from getting resin on it.
Now applying resin is easy
do this after you get area preped and protected. make your resin and put a first layer and brush it on the tin foil. covering all the tape/tinfoil. making the item bigger so you can trim later. get fiberglass chop mat available at wallmart, auto parts stores etc.
applying atleast 2-3 layers of resin and matting. to the serface no need to wait for layers to dry. you have to saturate the matting and make sure you get as many bubbles as you can out of it so that your peice will be structually strong. and let the peice completely dry before you mess with it so that the shape will stay there. me i use good resin available at places like WWW.selectproducts.com and chop matte off the roll instead of in the packaging. ps my person thing with the matting is to rip it apart not cut it with a scissor cuase it allows for easier saturation. and interlocking strength
that should help you somewhat
continue posting and i will try to keep up on this to help you out.
Jon
Installer/Help Technician
---coral springs florida---
mecp certification is not always needed. I have it and it has not helped me out at all. my experience out shines it.
nickypass 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: July 24, 2006
Posted: July 26, 2006 at 11:53 AM / IP Logged  
Thats helps....so the resin sicks to the tape and doesn't really run?
When the mold is out of the car and has to be trimmed....is a jigsaw okay? I don't have alot of "wood working" tools.
Once I get the mold trimmed and enough layers build up, I do the ring and dowl thing and stretch the flece ond do the same thing....Resin, let dry, then fiberglass 5-6 layers.
The main thing I'm worried about is cutting the fibergalss after its dry.
nickypass 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: July 24, 2006
Posted: July 26, 2006 at 11:56 AM / IP Logged  
Thats helps....so the resin sicks to the tape and doesn't really run?
When the mold is out of the car and has to be trimmed....is a jigsaw okay? I don't have alot of "wood working" tools.
Once I get the mold trimmed and enough layers build up, I do the ring and dowl thing and stretch the flece ond do the same thing....Resin, let dry, then fiberglass 5-6 layers.
The main thing I'm worried about is cutting the fibergalss after its dry.
tommyd1782 
Member - Posts: 1
Member spacespace
Joined: June 06, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: July 31, 2006 at 5:05 PM / IP Logged  
Don't want to steal your thread here but I'm also trying this out for the first time. the only thing I'm really unclear about is the taping off process. I can do this over the carpet correct? Anything besides the tinfoil that I should put down to keep the resin from seeping through?
sawhit4 
Copper - Posts: 64
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 22, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: July 31, 2006 at 5:23 PM / IP Logged  

A jigsaw will cut through fiberglass without any trouble.  If it doesn't already have a fairly fine toothed blade on it, you can pick on up at homedepot.  It will leave cleaner cuts in the fiberglass.  But no if you do it right, it shouldn't splinter. 

And tommyd1782, the tape layer is to keep the fiberglass resin away from the carpet.  Just about any kind of fabric will absorb resin, and will eventually harden.  Most peole like to shy away from having hard carpet in their car.  I'm in the process of fiberglassing the transmission hump in my car to make a center console.  To do mine i first layed down a layer of tape, then i put down a layer of plastic sheeting, like a painters drop, and used double sided tape to make sure the plastic sheeting conformed well enough to the area.  It worked perfectly for what i wanted to do, but anywhere with compound curves would probably give you trouble.  Basically you just need to cover the area in material that wont let the resin through, but will still keep the shape of the area. 

austincustoms 
Copper - Posts: 232
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 15, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: July 31, 2006 at 9:15 PM / IP Logged  
To speed up the taping process, you can just tape squares of foil, then spray it with pam.
Melted Fabric 
Silver - Posts: 509
Silver spacespace
Joined: October 24, 2003
Location: California, United States
Posted: August 04, 2006 at 4:06 PM / IP Logged  
Adding on to what most have said, be sure you taping quality is good, poor taping can also lead to resin leaks.
I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work.
When you do not know what you are doing and what you are doing is the best -- that is inspiration.

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