Ford 555p Bypass Module

well i guess it wasnt that hard to hook up, but it doesnt work. I have a 99 ranger xlt 4x4 loaded. i have been using the viper 794xv for about 6 months now by leaving a key in the ignition to get around the theft-lockout.    the key doesnt need to be in the on position for it to recognize the code, which is the only way ive been able to use the remote start. well i finally picked up a 555p bypass module, hooked it up, and programmed it. or so i thought. i never got any confirmation flashes when i first tried it. i dont even know if i was supposed to, the manual s.u.c.k.s. but, when i hit the remote, it will light up for 3 sec showing that the module is sending a code, but the car then flashes the theft light very fast signaling a bad code. im positive the wires are hooked up right. the car still starts as normal, with remote too as long as the key is in.    i programmed the way it said, one key in, on position, then out.   the other key repeated the same way.   during this process though, i never get any signal lights from the module. i guess my only falt was that i didnt have the sync and data wires hooked up right at first. there was two other wires that i thought were the right colors, but noticed they were wrong after i tried to program the system. i probably burnt out the module right there.... but it does still light up saying its sending the code, so it isnt fried. i never sensed anything burning or shorting out.....

Take the module back and get a 556U. Then get an additional key made for the module to use. Doing it this way is alot easier and a better way IMO. Have nothing but problems when it comes to ford immobilizers.Certified Security Specialist

Always check info with a digital multimeter.

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Another recommendation is the 555f. Its cheap ($15 on ebay) and it is the same programming as if you were programming an additional key for ford. Whats the down side is, its kinda hard to position the pellet. It takes alot of patience. Place the pellet right infront of the key cylinder and program it so that it learns first. Then position position it and zip tie it. I had problem with the 555p on the ford expedition, i ended up using the 555f. Note: You Always Dont Get What You Pay For.

What did you trigger the 555P with? DId you use the status output (blue wire) or the (-) ignition output (pink wire)? You should try triggering it with the pink wire. The blue wire comes on too early. The code is halfway done being sent before the ignition is powered up, so the car never gets the whole code and won't start.

I just noticed you made two of the same posts about this. I thought I had replied to this yesterday, but I didn't see my reply so I posted again. I'll quote your other thread:

mrdeng wrote: i used the blue status output. i guess ill try the pink, i take it you mean the small guage pink output from the viper control module? on the same molex as the blue output im currently using?

Yes, that is the pink wire I was referring to.

thank you, jworm. i will see if it makes a difference when i get a chance, i work too much to mess around with this crap, but oh well itll be worth it once it works. so, say i try this again and it still dont work, should i go with the 555U or 555F? whats the difference, and also, i thought the 555P was the only one i could use....

jworm- apparently i made two threads? one has 'pita' at the end, and this one doesnt.   i have no idea how that could have happened, i remember making this thread only once.... weird.

the 556uw is  a universal bypasss that requires a programmed key to go inside it.