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still new to fiberglass


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onelewdh22 
Member - Posts: 18
Member spacespace
Joined: August 18, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: September 01, 2006 at 3:24 AM / IP Logged  

Ok i'm still new to this (only got one project under my belt which were a set of rear quarter panel speaker pods), and have a couple questions that i have no clue about how to do.

1. Where and/or how do you guys hide your screws on your fiberglass enclosures/custom FG pieces? do you counter sink the holes and try and put them as far out of site as possible?

2. After my 1st project, i found out how messy and hard to work w/ fiberglass mat and resin was to work with.  I've found a couple products that i think would become invaluable for all my future projects, let me know if they're worth it, or if there's an alternative/ trick to laying and measuring out FG and resin.  Im checkin out getting all 3 "Roller Tools" and the "Deluxe MEKP Dispenser" http://www.mobilesolutions-usa.com/smartparts/fiberglass.htm

3. When covering a finished FG project with Vinyl or Suede should i "pre-cover" the piece or box w/ a layer of material or padding before laying the final material over the top?  For my first project i had an old hot rod buff (great w/ mechanically and upolstrie[sp]) wrap them for me in this blue suede like material (pretty thin) and he told me he had put a thin layer of padding over it to help hide some of my horrible sanding blemishes and also to make it soft.  Like i said horrible sanding job so next project will be done right this time.  Does anyone else ever use padding before wraping?

4. This brings me to my last question, What are the basic things i'm going to need for all of the sanding required w/ fiberglassing?  So far all i've got are a couple of Wal mart sanding blocks, a 6'' flat hand sander (don't know exactly the name of whats it called,but it's blue and you put sandpaper strips around it that's secured by pins that stick up), and just my two hands.  Now for curvier/smaller pieces should i get a good palm sander? What brand/one is the best overall? which one is cost effective?  Anything else i could put on my list of things to get? 

I've recently dove back into the whole fiberglass thing while also getting my feet wet to working w/ wood/MDF.  I just got a nice jig saw and router combo to start this hobby which will hopefully turn into a career!  I'm working on getting a new digital camera so i'll post pics of my progress and pieces.  Knowledge is the only thing holding back my creative imagination from producing other works of art as seen throughout this forum! 

Thanks guys any feedback would be greatly appreciated!  You'll definately be seein me around!

RED

Ctoh 
Copper - Posts: 123
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 15, 2005
Posted: September 01, 2006 at 10:58 PM / IP Logged  

What are you building that you would have screws that need hiding?   If you are making a sub box with a fiberglass face on it you shouldnt use any screws, only staples to attach your fleece to the rings, give a little more info. 

Measure the amount of resin you think you can use up without it gelling up first, trial and error on that one, get lots of scrap cardboard and gloves, it is messy for the most part, experience will save alot of mess.  Cut your mat into workable squares, normally about 3-4" squares is what we like to use.

the padding is up to you and how you want the project to come out, I covered the last box and amp rack with suede only but it was finished well enough to paint, its all up to you on that one.

The best sanders we use in my shop are a pneumatic 3" right angle grinder with 36 grit discs on it for the big break down, we then use a 3" DA sander with 80 grit on up to 220 grit discs, you will need an air compressor for this but these are the most effective sanders we have used in my shop.

crazyoldcougar 
Copper - Posts: 185
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 03, 2006
Location: Canada
Posted: September 02, 2006 at 7:46 PM / IP Logged  
#1 in the event that you have screws showing..it is easiest to make an overlay for that particular area...there are a number of products you can use to fasten the overlay down, spring clips, dome snaps, velcro...etc,
#2 Rolling tools are a very effective way to remove any air that may become trapped in your work as you go...personally i just use a paint brush thatis really stiff and poke the snot out of the piece of mat until it is wet out...saves a lot of resin that way...
i have never used thedispencer..i just guesstimate, generally by the colour of the resin once the Mekp is added...been doind it a long time though and the colours become very apparent...
only mix as much as you can use when i t comes to the resin...i do about 3 ounces at a time...it is very easy to mix more if you need it and very expensive to throw away if you made too much or you made it too "hot"..
As for the fiberglass mat...NEVER EVER CUT IT!! always tear your mat...as the loose fibers on the edge will blend with each other much better then cut edges...and wont leave nasty bumps in the surface...PLUS the torn pieces will wrap around corners and bends a million times easier then cut pieces...i even tend to stretch my mat out a bit to take out some of the stiffness in it..
#3 there are a couple different reasons one would "pad" a box or piece before wrapping with upholstry...like you mentioned it hides a multitude of sins...saves a little bit of sanding work, padding the piece will give it a softer look and feel...
and no you dont have to pad a piece to wrap it..
#4 as far as sanding...i have a 6" block, a 12" block, a tear drop block, an orbital sheet sander, a orbital palm sander, and a 3 1/2" angle grinder with adhesive sanding disks...
i sand all the way to 240 or so with the equipment and then up to 400 wet sanding by hand...(it is awefully hard to use power tools under water)
Fiberglass Guru.
Ctoh 
Copper - Posts: 123
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 15, 2005
Posted: September 02, 2006 at 10:34 PM / IP Logged  
I've never ever encountered a problem by cutting mat, its less messy, easier and have never noticed a diffrence between cut and torn mat.  Guess the only diffrence is others opinions of it...
onelewdh22 
Member - Posts: 18
Member spacespace
Joined: August 18, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: September 02, 2006 at 10:46 PM / IP Logged  
Ctoh- i was wondering how to hide screws/bolts that will secure the enclosure to the car or for attaching separate pieces together such as a trim or a cover piece.  How do you guys secure your enclosures not to move but still very accessable? 
 
crazyoldcougar- how do you "tear" the fiber glass mat?  i know what you mean, i've heard that way is better as well, but it was way too hard to rip or tear!  it was a lil thicker mat but still.  What weight of fiberglass mat do most people use?  obvious if there's a place where strength is a factor then use thicker mat, but i'm not even sure what weight i have (i think i bought a big pack of it from a local autoparts store).  What size should the torn pieces of mat be?
     Also, i'm looking into getting my first aircompressor.  Never had one before (i've used one before), and have a couple questions when deciding what to get.  First in your opinion, what are the top 5 brand name aircompressor manufacturers?  If i wanted to use it for auto/painting how big of a tank should i get?  I don't need it for really long periods of time, but i also don't want it to keep kicking on every 2 seconds to maintain pressure.
crazyoldcougar 
Copper - Posts: 185
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 03, 2006
Location: Canada
Posted: September 02, 2006 at 11:26 PM / IP Logged  
CTOH wrote:
I've never ever encountered a problem by cutting mat, its less messy, easier and have never noticed a diffrence between cut and torn mat. Guess the only diffrence is others opinions of it...
the difference comes when two pieces overlap by half an inch or so...you end up with a lump...LOL as for messy, fiberglassing is messy to begin with..to each their own i suppose though...
as for tearing it, just pull at it, it will tear...wear gloves and long sleeves when fiberglassing too, as mentioned by ctoh, it is messy, wether you tear or cut it, fibers get everywhere, as does resin...
i ususally get pieces about 4-5" wide by the same in length...you will find on vertical and upside down surfaces the smaller the pieces the better though, i go to about 2" x 2"...
most local store bought mat is 1.5 oz per Sq Ft...or 12 oz per Sq yard/ meter...it works more then fine...heavier mat just means you need to be a little better at wetting it out...and have to work a little faster with it, as it takes more time to wet out..
i wouldnt be too concerned with the wieght of the mat, just make sure you do appropriate thumb tests to insure it is thick enough...
as for compressors...i dont know any names but i was at Costco this weekend and they had a very nice 20 gal 5 hp setup that was only $199.00 CDN...i thought it was a pretty sweet deal...compared to the little popcorn fart of a compressor my brother bought me for 149.00 2 hp 3 gal...
Fiberglass Guru.

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