2006 Dodge Ram 1500 Viper 791xv

1. Positive parking lights are WHITE/ silver in a bundle above the parking brake pedal. That'll get rid of the fog lights coming on for sure. If you want to keep the parking lights the way you have them, try a slightly bigger (numerically higher) resistor. 2. I've always used the small-gauge constant wire at the keyswitch on new Chryslers, without problems. I've typically done remote-start-only installs, with no security.......your single siren shouldn't pose a large current draw........but, if you start installing fancy stuff like extra sirens, window rollups, and so forth, it'd be wise to go somewhere else for constant power. Since the ignition switch is fused at 10 amps under the hood from Chrysler, remove the 30-amp fuses from the remote start harness, and replace them with 7.5 or 5 amp fuses. That way, if there ever is a problem with your install, only the small fuses blow.......the car remains driveable.........if you left the 30 amp fuses in place, they'd be worthless, and the underhood fuse would blow instead, shutting down the car. 3. No, I haven't tried that......sounds like a whole lot of extra work, and a good risk of breaking something. It'll take you like two seconds to pry the cover off the keyswitch, put your ring in there, and maybe tape it down in a couple of spots.

Thanks for the info. I ran a 12 volt constant straight from the battery since I have 2 530 t's and a few other things installed but I was more worried about the other heavy gague wires ie. the pink purple and green. Thanks Malakai

I would strongly reccomend going to the battery for your main constants. The battery is very close to the fire wall,and you can easily drill a hole where the clutch hole would be (assuming its an automatic transmission)  I never had any problems with the parking lights. I used a WHITE/ lt.green wire just behind the switch.  I do remember there being 2 WHITE/ lt.greens though.    David

MECP Basic Installer Certification

Yeah I did go to the battery. I'm not i guess I will just have to to get the dmm out for the park lights. I would like to know if anyone else is having problems with that though. I will just have to wait till saturday so I can take it apart and try the install of the remote start. Still leary of connecting the wires from the high current relay to such small wires. Malakai

as far as your lights go you need to interupt the wire meaning use that one relay as you most likely have it however you will need to run pin 87a to the switch side of the wire and pin 30 with resitor to the motor side of the wire. this will illiminate the other lights from comming on if you have the right resistor. as well as since you ran a wire from batt for power (required) the heavy guage wires from rs system can connect to the low gauge wires from the car. however one thing not said is you have to interupt the second start/ acc wire from key for the acc to work properly. if you dont what will happen is when you stick the key in the ign and turn the acc on it will shut off the accessories becuase it will be getting the wrong resistance. the way to do this is use the same trigger wire from relay pack to trigger negative acc wire and acc wire interupt realys. one relay will give the ground through resistance and the other will interupt the wire from key when the rs is engaged. so that your acc like ac will remain on if key is in the ign and you have the rs still activated. ps those small wires just trigger relays so its all good. it is ok to connect the large realy pack wires to the thin guage cars harness. as i above stated all the thin guage wires do is trigger relays that control everything. the reason they did that is to take the stress off the key cylander making last a hell of a lot longer. any other questions i can help i have done over 8 of these cars recently with the same system. you can contact me via email. Jon

Installer/Help Technician

---coral springs florida---

mecp certification is not always needed. I have it and it has not helped me out at all. my experience out shines it.

you could also just take a pice of wire, tap it into the suspected WHITE/ lt.green wrap the correct resistor value to the end of it, then touch it to a piece of metal. that will atleast tell you if you have the correct wire. I wanna say i had problems metering it also. David

MECP Basic Installer Certification

Thanks for the replys I will have to play abit and I'm sure I'll be back with more questions... Only my 4th install of this unit. Malakai

Instead of connecting the thick 12 gauge wires comin out of the relay pack to the thin ignition wires, I cut the relay pack wires short (about 6-12"). Then extend them using 18 gauge wire and connect that to the truck's factory wiring. It is much easier to wrap 18 gauge wires around 18 gauge wires. Solder everything of course. You can also combine the 2 thick red wires from the relay pack into one, use a single 10 amp fuse and connect that to the battery. The wires at the ignition switch are low current, and will probably draw less than 5 amps total. I wouldn't mess with trying to connect the 556U into the factory antenna wiring. Less problems with using the ring that is included.

Well I won't try to mess with the factory antenna. I guess I have never thought of using the 18 gauge to splice not a bad idea at all. Now to find out why the headlights are on.... Thanks for the help all Malakai