Mid-bass drivers

I forgot that there are active crossovers that will do what you need. Did you have one of those because a good one will really allow you to dial it in without having to try all different value components if using passives.

If you add a dedicated amplifier for the 8's, you could bandpass them using the amp's active crossovers.  Then set the highpass on your mids/highs amp to a higher setting.  For midbass woofers, you could use a variety of drivers including those that are made for home use at 8 ohm impedance.  Look at Madisound for a great selection, and particularly at the closeouts (where I always look first).  As dwarren suggested, and would probably be ayed by one haemphyst on this forum, Morel is a quality driver for the application.  But you could use a variety, and looking through Madisounds lineup will acquaint you with some good ones.

Since your range for these will be limited bandpass, you should build an enclosure for them, I believe, instead of using them IB in the doors.  This is a tip I heard from kfr01 on here some months back, as he said he found that he could achieve more reliable response and sharper impact that way (or words to that effect, IIRC).  Your system will be extremely defined by frequency range when you add these components to the mix, so dialing in the crossover settings on the amplifiers will be a critical part of the job.

They do make 8's that are specifically geared to sub as well as ones that are geared for midbass. However it depends on the frequency response of the specific 8. Now if the response is lets say 40hz to 2000hz (this is just an example, don't know if any 8's have this specific rating) it could be used as a sub OR a midbass since there is enough frequency response available for either..

Since you are looking for midbass in the doors and not a sub I would start at 100hz on the low side and dial  in the high cutoff in by ear, using different value components. (shoot for 250-300hz and adjust from there)  stevdart has a good point that even though you are not looking for sub an enclosure will give much "tighter" results, better sq.

If you use passives you will also need to decide on a slope, the steeper the slope the more components and money you will need. I think you will be better off with an electronic cross over w/ bandpass and dedicated amp or using an amp with a built in band pass cross over if you can find one. With what you are trying to accomplish if the crossover points are not right  it will probably do more harm to the sound quality then good.

Keep us posted on how its going, appears like this system should be killer.

steven, it does not matter that your 8's can do this. As long as nouseforname says thay can't, then all facts, credentials and personal first hand experience are thrown out the window. He will try to make you feel like you are dumb, but since you know from personal experience that you are right and it is not debatible, in a sense he will call you a liar.

But I agree with you 100% because facts are facts and truth is truth. Although some try to warp it, it is futile in the longrun. The problem is that other less experienced people may be getting the wrong info or not knowing who to believe, further adding to thier confusion.

But this is the price we must pay to live in a free country and post on a public forum. I wouldn't have it any other way

peace

68 posts in two days?

Take a break, get some coffee.  Go to bed.