wiring 4 channel audiobahn amp

Hi, Well, I bought a new 4 channel audiobahn amp and wanted to powerup my front speakers but nothing is working so far. So heres what I did: Power, ground, battery were all hooked in correctly. RCA to low input (line in). I wanted to test the amp out by powering the left front speaker but nothing came up. I'm still new at this but I dont mind the criticism from you guys, I only learn from it. I got the schematics here: http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Mitsubishi-Wiring.pdf So I spliced the left front speaker + and - and hooked it up to the first channel, assuming its the white w/ blue stripe for positive and black w/blue stripe is negative. These are the wires connected to the white harness. But I'm not getting any sound at all. However, I am getting a little distortion once in awhile. I cut the white and white w/ black stripe so that they are not connected to the radio anymore. These are the wires connected to the black harness, to the radio. I really hope someone can enlighten me on what my problem is...having a miserable day but want to at least get this done, thanks p.s. the amp and rca cables (monster) are brand new so they should be okay. This amp is connected to my aftermarket receiver and my car is a 95 eclipse

Can you answer this question first. Why did you buy an Audiobahn amp?? Because it "looked" cool? Because of the "cool flames"?? Or because of cheap price?? My friend has a pioneer gm3100 I think...2 channel amp running all four of his Kove Audio 6.5's and it sounds damn amazing. Sorry bro but you will soon see that the majority of this forum kicks down Audiobahn

Actually I got it for free, lol. Yeah, I knew audiobahn was never too liked...but that doesnt answer the question of why it doesnt work. I'm going cheap right now and just need an amp to power my speakers, I had a phoenix gold amp but all was stolen so I'm not looking to spend too much money on this car...so please if someone could help me on this topic, thanks!

So do me a solid and disregard the crap about what the coolest kicks are to wear to school, if you know what I mean. Let's fix your issue. 1st, is the amp used or new. Let's be honest: you get what you pay for 2nd, did you splice into the speaker wire or did you completely cut the speaker free of the deck? By the way, you did get the speaker wires right. 3rd, what model is the amp?

Hi, I appreciate your help man. Heres my response to your following questions: 1) I got my amp brand new. Its from a friend and he happened to have an extra one. 2) I spliced the wire (stock wiring) and yes I did use speakers wires of course (lol) and connected to channel 1 (not that it matters). I then cut the speaker wires (from aftermarket harness) going to the deck. 3) It is an Audiobahn A4004T. Heres an image: http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?Productid=13488 If I've done something wrong please correct me, I'm still pretty new in this but am really eager to learn, thanks for any help

Here's a stupid question, but does your amp have a remote input? This is usually used to actually turn the amp on and off. It cam be wired either to the radio to turn on/off automatically or to a switch for manual on/off operation. Normally I'd look up your amp and tell you for sure, but I'm a little drunk right now *laughing*Squirrel

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Ok I found your specs from Audiobahn. Your remote line is located between the amps negative (ground) and positive (hot) leads. It's a single wire and labled REM on the amp. How do you have that wire hooked up?Squirrel

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If its too loud, then you're too old

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It does have a remote input but I always thought it could be set on/off based on the receiver (if receiver on, amp is on)? I just thought the remote input was optional because my amp does come on but nothing is happening when hooked up. Could anyone confirm that my installation process with the speaker wire is correct? Again I really appreciate everyones help, this is by far the most helpful forum ive been on.

oh my lol. The remote is a mandatory connection. This is what tells the amp when to turn on and off.

bchoi414 wrote: It does have a remote input but I always thought it could be set on/off based on the receiver (if receiver on, amp is on)? I just thought the remote input was optional because my amp does come on but nothing is happening when hooked up.

The amp comes on because you have power running to it (hence it shows a power light). But the internals aren't functional because you haven't flipped the switch (so to speak). That is exactly what the Remote line is for, flipping the switch. Without it you get nada (just like you're describing). There are multiple ways of hooking up the Remote line depending on what type of headunit you're using. If your HU doesn't have a dedicated remote output, then one of the most common installations is to tap into the power antenna wire (as long as it's still hot when the CD player is on, not just the radio). You can also tap into the switched 12v lead to the HU. If I'm not mistaken this lead is hot when the HU is turned on (this should be what you were referring to). Another common way is to tap a fused line either from the battery or from the constant hot lead to the HU and install a simple toggle switch for manual operation (works great when you tell the cops "Loud? My speakers don't even work. Here listen for yourself!"

bchoi414 wrote: Could anyone confirm that my installation process with the speaker wire is correct?

From the guide you referenced it sounds right. However I'd suggest next time testing the amp with a spare wire running straight from the amp to the speaker (eliminates any errors with tapping lines and makes a good starting base). Also if you went through the trouble of adding a 4-channel amp for the cabin speakers, then why not upgrade the wiring to them? Factory wiring is usually cheap and around 22 gauge (I think, it's usually very thin). Try running new wires from the amp to each speaker directly using apx 16 guage. You'll notice a difference Squirrel

"No more Cpt. Kirk chit chat"

If its too loud, then you're too old

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