Here's one for ya.

It is a passlock 2.  There is no starter kill relay involved. None of the original iqnition wires were cut, just tinned and then soldered onto. Yes, I am positive my connections are good. If you could see them you would agree. Thats why the whole key not working thing is so weird. As far as the bypass goes, I know it's hooked up right, because It worked, And I don't understand how that would keep the car from cranking. Normally it would start and then shutdown if it was a passlock issue right? It is of the dipswitch type, so I know about the varying resistances with temp. changes, but I ve got a ton of these things out there and this is the only one with this problem. I'm looking at it again tonight. The owner is so pissed he will probably tell me to take it out. Now I'm scared it won't start even with the unit out. I can't think of anything I've done wrong though, as I said I've really done quite a few of these. It's been nonstop since November. I'm sure you guys are busy, too. Anyway, for my own peace of mind I really want to figure this thing out. I don't like mysteries. Thanks for all your help, any more is welcome!

Did you get the email I sent you?  At this point since the customer is pissed, I would definatley bypass the Passlock using the diagram i sent you.  Solder everything.  If you are not prepared to use this method yet, then  watch the security light on the dash when you try to start the car either with the key or with the remote.  Notice how it acts, and if it act funny when it doesn't start, then you know it is your bypass. 

Also make sure that you are measuring your resistence properly.  measure between key side of yellow and the passlock ground wire, then reverse the leads on the DMM and record that reading, then use the higher of the two values.  the greatest part about using  trimpot is that you can get the resistence, closer to the exact value then you could by purchasing a ressitor with the exact value, because you will notice that even expensive DMM can be off when reading a resistor.  With a trimpot, even with a $20 DMM you can get very accurate readings as long the thing is consistent because you can dial in the exact resistence that you measure from the passlock system into the trimpot.

Keep us posted.

I would not even tell him you are going to try a different method, just do it.  It only takes about 15 minutes to put in the relay if you have it all ready to go.  Solder your two wires to the trimpot before hand and since you have already tapped the passlock wires, you should be able to hook up the reat of the wires in a couple of minutes. 

The pronlem with the car not starting for a while is what I find wierd.  as far as i can remember, the passlock systems to not make you wait after an unsuccesful attempt.  That is how the VATS works but I know the passlock I does not work this way.  I guess I have never has a problem with the passlock II before so I guess that it could use a time-out feature, but I did not think it did.  That would explain it if it did though.

im wondering what bypass you used to bypass passlock 2? to me it doesnt sound like a passlock issue, it  sounds more like a battery in poor condition!