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Remote Start in 2006 Charger


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bobbybungee 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: December 07, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: December 07, 2006 at 12:57 PM / IP Logged  
I just finished a remote start install in a 2006 Dodge Charger. The car starts just fine. The problem I have is certain gauge lights staying on when remote started, even after the key is in the ignition for take over. The Check Engine, ABS, traction control, and traction slip light stay on. When the car is started normally with the key I've got a CEL.
Oddly enough after a few tries it now seems that there's another problem....
1) Remote start vehicle
2) shut vehicle down
3) put key in to start vehicle
4) Security goes out then comes back on
5) Start car, car shuts down a few seconds later
If you change the steps to these, it's fine:
3) put key in , turn to on and then off
4) take key out
5) put key in and start vehicle
This car is such a headache.
ekaz 
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Joined: December 27, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 07, 2006 at 1:09 PM / IP Logged  
Sounds like the transponder didn't program correctly. I know that the car will do that if you try starting it with an "unauthorized" key.
bobbybungee 
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Joined: December 07, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: December 07, 2006 at 1:51 PM / IP Logged  
The second problem seems to be fine now. Although when it was remote started just now the 'security' light kept flashing. I would think if the transponder wasn't correctly programmed the car would just shut itself off everytime. Perhaps the transponder isn't seated correctly?
Still have a problem with the CEL and those gauge lights though.
Hymer 
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Joined: November 20, 2004
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Posted: December 07, 2006 at 1:52 PM / IP Logged  
Yeah, the bypass is causing the run / shutdown issue, as far as your ce lite and the rest of it, thats all due to the resistor values and such either through your bypass [if you used one for 2nd stat / 2nd accy wires. ] or your tolerances could be off... dodges are a royal pain with these issues.. I recomend a good bypass that does all the functions to the mux wire and even then there can be issues.. The XK532 for bypass kits does the best job so far - tx bypass, door lock, mux activation and so on... spendy though...
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xtremej 
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Gold spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: February 24, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: December 07, 2006 at 1:54 PM / IP Logged  
I have seen where it will remote start 1 time after started and shut off with a valid key, and it was a charger. What bypass are you using?
bobbybungee 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: December 07, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: December 07, 2006 at 2:40 PM / IP Logged  
Hymer wrote:
Yeah, the bypass is causing the run / shutdown issue, as far as your ce lite and the rest of it, thats all due to the resistor values and such either through your bypass [if you used one for 2nd stat / 2nd accy wires. ] or your tolerances could be off... dodges are a royal pain with these issues.. I recomend a good bypass that does all the functions to the mux wire and even then there can be issues.. The XK532 for bypass kits does the best job so far - tx bypass, door lock, mux activation and so on... spendy though...
I was thinking that might be the issue. I think it's going to end up getting a bypass kit. I was looking at the CHDL7-PK2.
ekaz 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: December 27, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 07, 2006 at 3:11 PM / IP Logged  
On my Charger, for the trunk release, I have to unlock the doors before popping the trunk.
green6767 
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Copper spacespace
Joined: October 28, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 07, 2006 at 3:59 PM / IP Logged  
the chdl7-pk2 works great for these cars. I've done many of them using this module and its been great. As far as the blinking light when started with the key, that means its still in what Chrysler/Dodge calls program mode. If you didn't get the sequence right or went too fast or slow while programming a module, it wont take. I have found it best when this happens to wait about 5 minutes before doing anything to the car. After 5 or so minutes, start it with both keys and make sure the security light isn't flashing while started with the key. You can then take another shot at programming a module. If the light is still flashing after started with the key, wait longer before doing anything with the key. This will take the car out of key program mode.   
As far as the dash lights being on, its definately how you have your resistors set up for the purle/brown wire. The module will also take care of this. The CEL is there to stay, since something went wrong with programming. It will be a code for invalid key sequence. Very easy to clear if you have a scan tool. Avoid the dealership to reset that code, they will charge a lot for such an easy fix. Try to find somebody with a cheap scan tool or if you have one....better yet. I have a cheap one I got from an auto parts store and its been a life saver! Only like $30. Good luck!
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bobbybungee 
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Joined: December 07, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: December 11, 2006 at 10:02 PM / IP Logged  

I did have to use a bunch of different resistors... wires in series and parallel. Couldn't find a 610ohm for the Accy. The resistance wasn't exactly 610 but it was pretty close. Guess I'll just save the headache and buy the chdl7-pk2 module.

bobbybungee 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: December 07, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: December 11, 2006 at 10:53 PM / IP Logged  

Is it at all possible that the wires used to extend the length of the R/S are too thin? Could that cause the problem?

The resistors are housed in a box under the dash. I ran a wire from the Accessory and 2nd Start wires of the R/S to the 'box with the resistors' and then from the 'box' to the vehicle wiring. Perhaps I didn't use thick enough wire for this?

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