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my first box need some input


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zkaoskid 
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Joined: December 11, 2006
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Posted: December 11, 2006 at 8:38 PM / IP Logged  
ok so i did my research and learned as much as i could.  so ive been working on my box for a few days now. i made a box and am laying a fiberglass facing to it.  i didnt want to paint it so i got the pigment for it.  but i think i messed up.  i made the rings and streched the fiberglass over it.  and i put fiber glass resin on it. and then i let it dry and put more resin on it. and so far i got about 4 layers of resin on it. then i thought that i probley should of laid some matting down.  i got carried away with the color and forgot about the matting. oops.  how bad off am i?  should i start over or can i lay matting over the thick thick layer of resin? 
memphis9 
Copper - Posts: 53
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Posted: December 11, 2006 at 11:01 PM / IP Logged  
Got any pics of the box?
G-Boys Customz
Northville, MI
zkaoskid 
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Posted: December 12, 2006 at 11:35 AM / IP Logged  
i do have some pics but when i have to compress the file to fit. ill have it up after i get off work tonight.
M&mfabrications 
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Posted: December 12, 2006 at 3:33 PM / IP Logged  
Your best bet would be to lay glass from the inside to add strength. It's probably not a good idea to lay mat over that thick layer of resin. Pictures would be good because if that layer of resin is real thick then it will crack easily.
zkaoskid 
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Posted: December 12, 2006 at 6:19 PM / IP Logged  
my first box need some input -- posted image. this was the first layer.
punkbastard 
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Posted: December 13, 2006 at 6:57 PM / IP Logged  
If you just keep laying layer after layer of just resin, you are simply adding weight, not strength.  If you do it too much, you will actually make it weaker.  I would go with the previously suggested idea of strengthening from the inside if possible.
jlord16 
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Posted: December 14, 2006 at 8:18 AM / IP Logged  
I personally would strengthen the box from the inside as mcu has possible (with resin AND matting) if you coulse sand the outisde back abit then matting over the top it would be even stronger.  but i dont know what sorta affects the sanding will have on the colour or finish of the box
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punkbastard 
Copper - Posts: 137
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Posted: December 14, 2006 at 11:17 AM / IP Logged  
I just realized the whole color thing.  So, your idea is to use resin pigment as a finish for your box instead of painting it?  Honestly, bad idea bro.  Think about it, if you want the pigmented resin to be your finish then you are not going to be able to sand it at all or else it will lose its shine.  So, you'll end up with a nice shiny box thats textured and uneven.  I would suggest sanding the box down, getting it nice and smooth and then cover it in some material.  I use pigmenting for if it's possible that the customer might see a part of a fiberglassed material every now and then that is not covered, that way it looks better.
bomex_eclipse 
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Posted: December 14, 2006 at 4:36 PM / IP Logged  

Its looking good so far. Im with "punkbastard" But please keep us posted

If You Can Imagine It Glass It!
Techmaster 
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Joined: December 01, 2003
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Posted: December 18, 2006 at 9:29 PM / IP Logged  
Yeah, fiberglass is super ugly, I guarantee you will not want to leave it bare. In car audio, it's a raw building material, nothing more/less. You've still got to bondo/sand it smooth for just about any finishing method, just the amount of sanding needed will change for each type of finish.
More important than that, a very important lesson:
Fleece and polyester resin is NOT fiberglass! Fiberglass is tiny strands of glass, spun into a thread, and chopped up into little fibers. The fibers look almost like hair, make you itch horribly, and are the source of strength. without fiberglass, the resin is nothing more than dried glue, and is extremely brittle. Whether you can salvage the project is up to you. Feel free to post pictures of what it looks like now, and maybe we can help more, but either way, do not go any further with what you are doing unless there is any severe itching involved. Hope this helps.

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