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sador 
Copper - Posts: 57
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 25, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: May 21, 2002 at 8:10 PM / IP Logged  

Hi everybody I have 3 amps and 1 xover but a have to much noise on my system what I can do to reduce that noise that come from the engine?

hot_shot_guy123 
Copper - Posts: 114
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 09, 2002
Location: Canada
Posted: May 21, 2002 at 11:08 PM / IP Logged  

First off are your RCA's and power cable's parallel right next to each other?   If that is the case then run the power on the other side of the car.  Post how your setup is so we can get a better idea of what the problem could be.

hot_shot_guy123

NyxBass 
Silver - Posts: 226
Silver spacespace
Joined: March 14, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: May 22, 2002 at 11:22 AM / IP Logged  
Both of those a good starts. Try to figure out wher ethe whine is coming from. Try bypassing the crossover to see if it's the problem. Perhaps it's just one amp...like the highs - try moving grounds around, on every component. I had to resort to a ground loop isolator in my most recent case. God luck, and come back if you have any more problems!
/NyxBass
Velocity Motors 
Moderator - Posts: 12,488
Moderator spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Fabrication. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: May 22, 2002 at 11:41 AM / IP Logged  

The following checklist can be used for the basic troubleshooting of noise in mobile audio installations. The key to success is to relax and systematically go through the vehicle. The problem WILL be found. Murphy’s Law states, however, it will be in the last place you look.

1. TO BEGIN: Be sure that system is correctly designed and matched for compatibility.

2. INSPECT VEHICLE: Verify ground from negative battery terminal to fender and/or chassis. Upgrade as needed. This connection must be capable of handling the current of the entire system. ASSUME NOTHING!

3. CHECK VEHICLE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM: Battery, alternator, etc. Make sure your alternator can adequately supply the sound system as well as other vehicle systems (alarm, lighting, etc.) AMPS/VOLTAGE NOT OK: See service technician to have system repaired or upgraded.

4. PROPERLY MOUNT COMPONENTS:

4.1 Isolate from chassis.
4.2 Mount away from vehicle harnesses, computers, etc.
4.3 Do not hesitate to use a factory wiring diagram if needed. DO NOT GUESS!

5. PROPERLY RUN ALL CABLES:

5.1 USE CORRECT GAUGE WIRE.
5.2 Ground all components to a central point or use "ground sniffer" to locate a quiet area.
5.3 Run power and signal cables down opposite sides of vehicle.
5.4 Properly terminate all connections (double check!).
5.5 Use a relay for clean power if needed.
5.6 Use the same gauge wire for power and ground.
5.7 Check signal cables for continuity and repair any open shields or cold solder points.

6. HOOK EVERYTHING UP: Follow the instructions provided with the component and be sure of polarity. Make sure everything is working and set all line levels. If noise exists, please continue...

GENERAL PROCEDURE FOR LEVEL SETTING:

When setting gain levels, always work from the source unit to the amplifiers.
Start by checking your L-R balance. Use a CD with test tones (example: 1kHz sine wave).
Alternate method: Use a pink noise track and a real time analyzer set to read dB level. Convert the dB reading to RMS volts using the conversion chart at the end of this checklist.
Connect a Digital Volt Meter (DVM) to each of the RCA outputs of the head unit (set DVM to AC VOLTS). The output voltage should be the same on both channels. If your meter reads peak voltage, multiply the meter reading by .707 to get the RMS voltage.
If the next component is a Line preamp, set the gain controls on the preamp to the maximum voltage required for the inputs of the next component in the signal path (or until just before distortion is heard) and measure the signal with the DVM. Remember…some preamp/line drivers are capable of over 10VRMS output!
Measure and match the output of each component to the maximum recommended input level of the component following it down the signal path to the amplifier(s).
Keep the input level controls (gains) on the amplifiers as low as possible.

7. IGNITION NOISE: Check for noise in each of the following switch positions:

7.1 IGNITION ON, CAR NOT RUNNING: It is possibly related to an Electronic control module, digital dash, or possibly fuel pump. Do not attempt to filter an E.C.M.! Re-route cables away from control unit or fabricate a shield.
7.2 ACCESSORY POSITION, CAR NOT RUNNING (All accessories off): Substitute an isolated signal source (such as a walk-man CD, tape player, or home CD player), if the system plays fine, the head unit needs to be checked.
7.3 ENGINE RUNNING: Make certain no ground loops exist between components (if they do, see next section.).

NOTE: Pulse Width Modulated headlight switches (like some Honds cars use) can cause a whining type of noise when on, verify this type of problem by turning lights on and off while listening for noise. If this is the problem, the headlight switch may need to be replaced with an alternate type.

8. GROUND LOOPS AND/OR RADIATED NOISE EXIST: Check resistance of all ground cables; consider using central point grounding. Resistance needs to be as low as possible (around .2 ohms) on your meters lowest scale. If not, re-do or upgrade cables. If it is not possible to get the resistance’s this low, try to get them all at an equal value (all the same resistance.)

TIP: Use the combination of a DVM and a ground sniffer (plans available from our technical dept.) to find the best ground point. Remove the positive cable from the vehicles’ battery and check resistance’s from:

A. Ground point of all units with connection point on chassis.
B. Connection point on chassis with the negative terminal of the systems battery.
C. Battery negative terminal with the chassis connection point.

Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
sador 
Copper - Posts: 57
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 25, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: May 22, 2002 at 7:18 PM / IP Logged  

Thank you everybody

I reduced the noise like 80 % but when the car is running the noise come on for a few second and stay and then gone and still doing that all the time like on and off.

NyxBass 
Silver - Posts: 226
Silver spacespace
Joined: March 14, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: May 22, 2002 at 8:35 PM / IP Logged  
Hmmm, sounds like something intermittently turning on and off, like A/C or cooling fans or something. Try watching the engine conpatrement...If it's the radiator fan or somehting similar, it might have a faulty connection or a bad motor.
/NyxBass
Servtech 
Member - Posts: 1
Member spacespace
Joined: May 22, 2002
Location: Haiti
Posted: May 22, 2002 at 8:46 PM / IP Logged  

if i m install a crossover the noise is stop ?

yes or no . my stereo is not inclure the rca cable

destine gary
bberman1 
Gold - Posts: 2,314
Gold spacespace
Joined: March 11, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: May 22, 2002 at 9:30 PM / IP Logged  
No the crossover just filters out certain sound frequencies, such as bass or treble.  Not engine noise.

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