JWorm wrote:
joba356 wrote:
JWorm wrote:
joba356 wrote:
| Also KarTuneMan by trigerring i want to hold the key in the unlock or lock position for a few as a method of triggering the module, like i stated above. Will this work, or will it not work without an alarm, i am thinking that the trigger for the locks can be use for the same thing when the module is connected. Lets say i connect it to the window motors with a relay or something will it not give it the power it needs when i hold the key, like a switch? |
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The best window module available is the DEI 530T. There is no way to make it wait until it sees a double pulse on the activation input wire before it will roll the windows down. Therefore, with the wiring method you want to use every time you unlock the windows will roll down. Actually they will just vent 2 inches when it receives the short pulse. Your idea of using a double pulse generator won't work either. You need something that takes 2 inputs pulses (the unlock pulses) and then outputs a timed output (for 10-15 seconds). Then your windows would roll down only when you hit unlock twice. I know of no such device. Actually a PAC TR-7 can do some crazy things like that. Try downloading a manual from pac-audio.com and see if it could do that. How would the pros do it, you ask? They would install an aftermarket keyless entry system with the appropriate AUX outputs. |
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I guess what i want is somewhat outof my limits, so i will take your advice and just get the keyless entry system. Also one question, i have seen this sort of Accessories remote, that has for buttons that supposedly you can wire up to power four things, would this work? Im not able to remember the name right now but i do know ive seen it at autozone. Would you recomend this? |
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Yes, a system with 4 buttons and 4 outputs (along with a 530T for 2 windows) would work great. You could use one output for lock, one for unlock, one for windows up and one for windows down. Ideally, you would want the system to have validity outputs on the AUX channels used for the windows. That means as long as you continue to hold the remote button, the output keeps putting out a signal. That would be needed if you wanted to put the windows all the way down because the 530T takes a short pulse and vents the windows 2 inches, and takes a longer pulse and puts the windows all the way down. |
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Good, thanks soo much, i will get that then and if i need any help will return. Wanna thank all of you guys for your tips and opinions. Now for my next project questions, im just gonna ask here because i havent found anything on it so here goes. I want to eliminate my ignition like "technoweenie" did in the gallery forums. I noticed he has another starter switch for if the alarm button is lost thats what i want. I want to have no ignition instead a hidden universal starter switch. So what im thinking of doing is taking the wires of the ignition running them hidden to where i want the switch and wiring it up there. Now he goes they question. I have noticed that on the wire diagrams it states two ignition cables one is (BLK/YEL) and the other is (WHT/BLK) now the switch i have has the following connectors on the back: the middle= STARTER, The right = IGNITION, and the left = ACCESSORY. Do i connect both the ignition cables together to the one location on the back of the switch? I know it was long but would really appreciate the help. Thanks Again
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