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dome light and locks don't work


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jsn0327 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: April 02, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: February 18, 2007 at 11:09 PM / IP Logged  

I just finished installing my brand new compustar 2W900FM-AS remote start alarm into my 2005 Mitsubishi Eclipse.  Everything on the alarm works fine, except for the keyless entry and dome light.  Now my dome light doesn't work at all (not even when I try to manually turn it on, and yes I have checked all fuses!) My power door locks are also messed up now for some reason.  It's pretty wierd. Neither of the power door lock switches will work when the key is out of the ignition.  When they key is in the ignition, and the key is turned to the ACC ON position, the drivers side power door lock switch will work for both the Lock and Unlock position, but the passenger side switch is still dead!  I don't know what it could be!  The only thing that I had to do out of the ordinary was that I had to diode isolate each door switch, and I used a 30 amp SPDT relay for the dome light supervision. Both of which were explained thoroughly on www.bulldogsecurity.com, and I followed the directions to the T!  I have tested both the diode isolation, and the relay for the dome light supervision. Both of them are working as they should be.  When either door is open, the respective door is displayed on my 2 way LCD as being open, so I know that the diodes are installed correctly.  I can hear the relay clicking closed and providing a negative signal to the dome light wire when I disarm the system, so the relay is working.  So i'm all out of ideas!  Aside from both dome light bulbs being burnt out (which I haven't checked yet), I don't see how I could have either problem.  Both the dome light relay, and the lock/unlock wires are tapped off of the respective wires in the drivers side kick panel, so even if the alarm wasn't working, you would think that they would still work when you manually pressed the switches to actuate them!?  The same thing applies to the dome light!

If anyone has any suggestions,  I would REALLY like to hear them! Thanks alot for your time!

            -Jason

swerve 
Copper - Posts: 149
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 10, 2007
Location: Oregon, United States
Posted: February 19, 2007 at 11:26 AM / IP Logged  
try disconnecting one thing at a time to see what could be causing the problem, where did you tap into for the keyless? which direction is the stripe on your diodes?
git yer swerve on!
Hymer 
Silver - Posts: 695
Silver spacespace
Joined: November 20, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: February 19, 2007 at 12:10 PM / IP Logged  
Lock purp , unlock GREEN/ red (-) drivers kick. Door PIn FL green , Door Pin FR lt GREEN/ black [under left side of dash [-] Key sense blue / red ign harness [-]
Sounds like something is definitly wired wrong, recheck all the locks / door pins / keysense ect...
Tire Proz Stillwater Mn
High End Restyling and Comlete Repair
jsn0327 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: April 02, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: February 19, 2007 at 3:38 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks for the replies!  I just went to NAPA and got them to print out the electrical circuits of my car so that I can track down the problem.  As for the questions above..

The only thing that I diode isolated were the door pin switches.  I have 2 doors and I soldered in the 1 amp diodes with the striped end toward the door pins(away from the door pin trigger wire comming from the alarm  ).  the door pin wires that I used were the Light green (-) wire in the drivers kick panel for the drivers side door, and for the passenger side door I spliced right into the wire comming from the door switch.

As for the power locks, this is what is listed on the print out from bulldogsecurity.com

 POWER LOCK  PURPLE (TYPE B)  @ LAGER BLACK Plug, in Harness from DRIVERS DOOR or IN PIN 33 @ ETACS ECU, See NOTE *1     

POWER UNLOCK  LIGHT GREEN/ RED (TYPE B)  @ LAGER BLACK Plug, in Harness from DRIVERS DOOR or IN PIN 34 @ ETACS ECU, See NOTE *1     

LOCK MOTOR WIRE  LIGHT GREEN (+)  @ 28-PIN PLUG, PIN 19, BELOW FUSEBOX

I currently have the  (-) lock wire connected to the purple wire and the (-) unlock wire connected to the Light GREEN/ red wire in the drivers door harness like it states here, but I did not connect anything to the lock motor wire, as there is not a wire for this comming from my alarm.  I see the Light green(+) wire that it is referring to, comming from the lock side of the motors and going into the ECU, but the power lock switches only provide a negative signal when you press them to lock or unlock the doors, so I assume that the ECU should still be powering that wire.

There is no Key sense wire comming from the alarm, and in the print out it shows N/A next to Key sense, so i'm assuming that there is no wire for it. Here is what the print out has for the Blue/red wire in the ignition harness.

ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 1  - BLUE/RED (+) - IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

I did not find a "factory alarm - ReArm" wire for my car in the print out, so I did not connect that wire. I did connect the "Factory alarm - Disarm" wire comming from the alarm to the Orange (-) wire in the ECU plug.  Do you think that the factory alarm could be causing all of these problems because it is not being "re-armed"?

I am an aircraft electrician by trade, and the only thing that I could think of that would affect all of these systems are those diodes.  That doesn't make much sense to me because I have no physical breakes in any of the OEM wires, they are only "tapped" off of.  I just found out while driving the car that neither of my turn signals work now either.  Which is also odd because I didn't tap into them at all, unless they are integrated into the parking light wire somehow.  Well I'm about to go start shooting wires.  If anyone can think of anything, please reply. Thanks!

          -Jason

Hymer 
Silver - Posts: 695
Silver spacespace
Joined: November 20, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: February 19, 2007 at 4:15 PM / IP Logged  
What type of connecions did you use to tap into the factory wires?   It really sounds like you have something mis wired in the locks if you disconnect the lock wires from your alarm and see if the locks function normally. If they do then your rs unit may be sending a consistent ground to the lock/unlock wires. Unfortunatly I am unframiliar with compustar units so the dome light I don't know where to start, but you may NOT need a relay for this, i would think it is built into the unit so that could be the problem there. My best advice is to have someone post the diagram off of direct techs or wire magic and really go over the connections and the config of the remote start setup in the compustar manual. When I first started I would map out the wires between the data sheet and the pinout off the rs unit, really keeping an eye on polarity and if there is relays needed or not. Most decent units [compustar being one of them] have all this stuff built into them, but getting through the manual , and tech jargon can be a bit tricky..
Tire Proz Stillwater Mn
High End Restyling and Comlete Repair
mikvot 
Gold - Posts: 1,043
Gold spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: December 19, 2006
Location: Missouri, United States
Posted: February 19, 2007 at 6:15 PM / IP Logged  
Alright, i know you said you checked all the fuses......i have seen the exact same thing on a few mitsus, generally hooking up something wrong will blown a fuse under the hood. Its the main fuse for the etacs module. At the fuse box you will find a yellow  (if i remember right) plastic fuse holder. It will have 2 mini fuses in it. Usually one of the two will be blown, which will take out the dome light and the door locks.....and will give the exact symptom you said....locks and unlocks with key on, but no function with key off. Definately check all of your wiring before putting a new fuse in, or you'll just blow it again, and those fuses aint fun to pull....sort of a pain. If you cant find where the fuses are, let me know, im goin to my mitsu lot tomorrow, i can take a picture for ya.
jsn0327 
Member - Posts: 3
Member spacespace
Joined: April 02, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: February 19, 2007 at 9:58 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks for your help everyone!  I figured out what the problem was, and it is now fixed.  The space that my ECU fits in is pretty tight, and when I reinstalled it, i misaligned it, and it was not making contact!  I took it completely out and reinstalled it. Now everything is working correctly!  I was going to start disconnecting wires, but after looking at the wiring schematics, I noticed that all of the components that were giving me problems tied directly to the ECU, so I started there first.  Thanks again!

         -Jason


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