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2004 dodge ram, autopage rs-622


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coldchuck 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: February 23, 2007
Posted: February 23, 2007 at 1:43 PM / IP Logged  
I have done these installs before but customer brought in a AutoPage RS-622 and CHRDAA module which those two I am not familar with.
The vehicle in question is 2004 Dodge Ram 3500 Laramie with Cummins Diesel and Auto transmission with grey Sentry key and has factory alarm (horn and lights will go off if door is locked and window down and unlock door and opening door). Has keyless entry.
I have hooked up (100% soldering) following wires:
AutoPage
these are heavy wires out of unit to vehicle
Violet (starter output) to yellow wire (confirmed with DMM prior)
Red (12V input) to Red constant 12V heavy wire
Another Red to different Red constant 12V heavy wire
Yellow (ingition #1) to Pink/White (confirmed with DMM)
Pink (ing #2) to Pink/Lt. Green (confrimed with DMM)
Brown (ACC out) to Dk. Blue heavy wire (confirmed with DMM)
(didnt hook up to other ACC wire (Pink / YELLOW heavy wire) right now)
these are lighter wires to vehicles 5 pin conn (for park lights and horn)
RED / White to 12V constant
White to resistor 330 ohm to parking light neg. trigger circuit (park lights works)
Black to ground (good ground no resistance)
Brown to a horn neg ground (works good)
Red to 12V constant
Other light guage wirings 14 pin conn (for everything else)
Orange (neg output when armed) not in use
Yellow (neg Ing #3 output 4 sec before r/s and stays on during running) not in use
White (neg output) dome light control not in use
pink (neg. programming output) not in use
Grey (neg programming pulse output) will use this for seat warmer later.
WHITE/ blue (mom neg input for instant start/turn off input) not in use
BLACK/ white (R/S neg saftey switch input) Grounded to body (good ground)
WHITE/ Violet (pos saftey shutdown sw. input ) hooked to brake light WHITE/ tan (verified with DMM)
WHITE/ Black (neg saftey shutdown input) hooked to hood pin and its verified open circuit with hood down
WHITE/ red (tach) hooked to Cummins ECM pin 24 of 60 pin conn. Verified with AC volt flutuation.
Grey/Black (neg 2nd starter output) not used
Blue/Black (neg 2nd ACC output) not hooked up but will use this for A/C controls thru relay
BROWN / Black (200mA neg ground output when running) hooked to CHRDAA module blue wire.
Blue connector to valet switch
Door lock connector
Blue wire (neg. pulse to unlock and pos pulse to lock)
Green wire (neg. pulse to lock and pos pulse to unlock)
I wired the door lock wires to CHRDAA using two 1n1004 diodes with band toward the AutoPage because CHRDAA requires negative door lock/unlock to be grounded. Thus I wired R/S blue wire to CHRDAA orange wire with diode in between (band to RS side) and wired R/S Green wire to CHRDAA PURPLE / white wire with diode (band also to R/S side).
Thats is it for Autopage.
On CHRDAA that is where I had trouble with because instructions are wrong and in some cases backwards. Anyways, here we go...
CHRDAA (version 8.1)
Green wire (cut off not in use)
Blue wire (connected to R/S BROWN / black running output neg ground)
Org. and Black to OBD II port pin #2 (soldered to wire behind)
Orange to R/s blue with diode inline for door unlock
PURPLE / White to R/S Green with diode inline for door lock
purple (cut off not in use for trunk)
Yellow/Black (cut off not in use for sliding door)
yellow (same as yellow/black)
Red (to constant 12V supply)
Black to good same ground point as R/S
3 pin connector
white (cut off not in use for Liberty door pin)
Pink/Black analog #3 goes to PURPLE / lt. blue between big connector and the brake pedal on firewall for door lock/unlock arm/disarm
Pink analog #2 (cut off not in use for vehicles without alarm)
(please note that insructions are incorrect in several ways it says Analog #3 is for door locks without alarm and #2 is for locks with alarm. Further investigation reveals its backwards.
transponder looped around the ingition barrel next to the factory immoliizer module about 3 wraps loose.
For testing. I first powered up CHRDAA with key on till horn beeps 3 times and turned it off. then put in key #1 and for 7 sec and turn off and put in #2 in for 15 secs then horn beeped and security light flashed fast. then I took key off and put the CHRDAA module next to the key barrel (end of module touching the barrel as shown in photo)and powered up (actually I had to fumble with jumper wires and not sure if 60 secs is up or not) ingition wires (Pink/white and pink/lt. green to 12V) the horn blast and the security light flashed and stopped for 3 sec and then flashed again like if there is power but no keys.
at this point I dont know if CHRDAA is programmed or not fully.
For testing I grounded Chrdaa door lock input wire to ground. the lock did not work. Ditto for unlock input wire. Does that mean Chrdaa isnt programmed or what?
Moving along, I tried to program Autopage to accept the remote, it wont beep once just three beeps with parking light flashes three times after 15 sec (probably timed out).
So, gents and ladies, tell me where did I go wrong??
Thanks!
Chuck
Hymer 
Silver - Posts: 695
Silver spacespace
Joined: November 20, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: February 23, 2007 at 1:57 PM / IP Logged  
Hmm,I am not framiliar with the bypass at all, but thats a prety straight fowward install snd it looks like ya wired everything right. 1st get the remote to program. hold he key in front of he ign barrel and try to remote start it. Then try with the bypass if it doesnt start then its not programed, and you may need to get it to a dealer to get the truck to accept additional keys, I ran into this a few times this year..[its a stupid dodge thing] If the locks don't work from your bypass, then just run them the old fashioned way 850 ohm lock, 400 ohm unlock (-) , disarm 450 ohm (-) raher than messing with something that has misguided directions.. I'm sure someone around here has used on of these bypasses in the past...
Tire Proz Stillwater Mn
High End Restyling and Comlete Repair
coldchuck 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: February 23, 2007
Posted: February 23, 2007 at 2:03 PM / IP Logged  
Correction about which version CHRDAA I have. I have v8.0 not v8.1 (there is no 8.1)
Here is the link to CHRDAA http://bypasskits.fortinautoradio.com/en/products/bypass_kits/chrdaa/
Version D is what i got. and Version F is identical to D except for correction to instruction found in D I think. Anyone confirm this? I mentioned that I wired just like in version F not D instructions.
Should I say good bye to this CHRDAA and buy another bypass module out of my pocket?
Many thanks!
Chuck
coldchuck 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: February 23, 2007
Posted: February 23, 2007 at 2:08 PM / IP Logged  
Hymer wrote:
Hmm,I am not framiliar with the bypass at all, but thats a prety straight fowward install snd it looks like ya wired everything right. 1st get the remote to program. hold he key in front of he ign barrel and try to remote start it. Then try with the bypass if it doesnt start then its not programed, and you may need to get it to a dealer to get the truck to accept additional keys, I ran into this a few times this year..[its a stupid dodge thing] If the locks don't work from your bypass, then just run them the old fashioned way 850 ohm lock, 400 ohm unlock (-) , disarm 450 ohm (-) raher than messing with something that has misguided directions.. I'm sure someone around here has used on of these bypasses in the past...
Auto page doesnt even lock/unlock pulse. Autopage module doesnt reconize the two supplied autopage remotes. Im going to disconnect autopage and reconnect it and try to program the autopage to reconize the remote because i need it to reconize the r/s remotes in order to finish programming other features of the r/s unit.
I know I got two problems going on at same time and neither one of them is helping. so for now I need to isolate to RS for now and then work on bypass. What do u think?
CHuck
Hymer 
Silver - Posts: 695
Silver spacespace
Joined: November 20, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: February 23, 2007 at 2:43 PM / IP Logged  
Exactly, get the rs to work, then do the sentry key portion of the bypass.. Then screw with the locks. I wouldn't dump the bypass just yet.. like I said it may be the doge service bulliten thing for the key not programing, but the locks can always be wired with resistors...
Tire Proz Stillwater Mn
High End Restyling and Comlete Repair
coldchuck 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: February 23, 2007
Posted: February 23, 2007 at 4:04 PM / IP Logged  
Okay, update.
Found antenna connector not seated all the way in. Now, got RS to accept both remotes. On to programming.. parking lights flashes etc.. all ok. will unlock all 4 doors (quad cab) at once and will not lock any of the doors. Must be bypass module?? Will look into this later.
Programmed unit for diesel wait to start to 20 sec (it gets cold here) and programmed unit for tach learn. instruction says that if park lights and led flashes then i got tach signal when engine is running and need to press in valet button for 2 sec until the led gets solid for 2 sec and horn will long chirp. Did that and still wont start after programming for tach. Didnt work. Tried Voltage (just for testing) still dont work, then tried timer setting with no luck. so I rechecked hood pin to make sure its open (it does) and make sure brake swith is off (it does) and thats it. Checked volt output from RS while pressing start button no voltage. maybe something is interlocking the rs out??
coldchuck 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: February 23, 2007
Posted: February 24, 2007 at 4:57 PM / IP Logged  
Update:
R/S is working now. Apparently it was programmed to start upon pressing "*" button twice. Fixed that. Still will not run without key. That would mean the bypass module isnt either programmed completely or the system immobilizer did not reconize the bypass or something. Still will not lock thru bypass module just unlock (all doors at once instead of usual driver's door). Any ideas?
Chuck
coldchuck 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: February 23, 2007
Posted: March 01, 2007 at 3:34 PM / IP Logged  
Update:
Remote starting works fine as long as I have the key held next to the ingition barrel. Door lock/unlock works fine. AC, etc... works well. only thing left for me to do right now to program damn BCM to accept the CHRDAA module. It appears that it won't recognize it very well. So, after bit of search, stumbled on this knowledge base:
==============================================================
Symptom: The installer is unable to program the bypass kit's onboard transponder into the vehicle's BCM (Body Control Module).
Cause: In the majorority of these cases the remote starter timing is not fast enough to enable the vehicle's ignition and the bypass kit's transponder output so the vehicle's BCM times-out in the middle of the installation programming procedure.
Solution: The vehicle and bypass kit will need to be 'hot-wired' near the end of the programming sequence in order to enable the Bypass kit's output before the BCM times-out. In most cases (referring to most bypass kit programming procedure) once the second key has been removed the vehicle's ignition will need to be powered up and the bypass kit's ground-out-while-running input will need to be grounded. In some cases the vehicle's 2nd ignition or accessory wire will also need to be powered up and furthermore on very select few models the key sense wire will also need to be grounded.
================================================================
Okay, I grounded both Keysense wire (PURPLE / tan)(I have those) and the bypass kit ground-while-running-input wires (CHRDAA's blue wire)and supplied 12V power to ingition 2 circuits (pink and pink/white) and the 2 accessory circuits (drk blue and Pink / YELLOW). The security light didnt stop flashing at all and no chime (after inserting 1st key then on for 7 sec and turn off and inserting 2nd key and turn on until the security light flashes and chime heard and removed). My question is where do I orient the module to the barrel while powering up? end to barrel or face to barrel or back to barrel. I know that other brand module are quite specific about where/how to point/hold to.
How do I test the CHRDAA ability to bypass immobilizer? Ground the blue wire (ground-while-running-input) while leaving the key away? I know the module can be only programmed once on databus. But will that affect the BCM learn process when programming the "3rd key" transponder? My job will be done if BCM recognizes the module.
thanks!
coldchuck 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: February 23, 2007
Posted: March 01, 2007 at 4:38 PM / IP Logged  
Update:
After 4th time attempt to program BCM to accept the CHRDAA transponder. I looked at the module and saw a circle drawing on the sticker. It would mean the location of transponder in the module. so I repeated the BCM programming and the security light flashes quickly then went off and chime heard like it supposed to. so that would mean that BCM is accepting the new transponder. So, I tested the RS without the key held to barrel. it wont start but crank. The security light flashes on and off. I verified keysense wire and its working thru autopage yellow wire correctly (-200ma ingition output that comes on 4 sec before rs intialize and stays on while its running). Maybe I also need to connect the CHRDAA blue (ground while running input) to that keysense wire?
Any thoughts?
coldchuck 
Member - Posts: 11
Member spacespace
Joined: February 23, 2007
Posted: March 01, 2007 at 5:00 PM / IP Logged  
UPDATE...
SUCCESS!!
Guys. It all works!!
The real problem is wiz poor instructions of CHRDAA.
My instructions (version 8.0d) is all wrong. So, its cruical to follow the latest version (8.0f) especially when it comes to wrapping the antenna around key barrel. It HAS TO BE DONE IN FRONT OF THE IMOBILIZSER MODULE not behind (as I did). It works fine. Sigh. I thought I'd pass these on to ya'all who might come across with dodge truck with CHRDAA install.
Another thing is that the module sticker with circle drawing has to face the barrel to get BCM to accept new transponder and the vehicle keysense and grounded-while-running input (CHRDAA)wires has to be grounded also like in knowledge base info posted above.
So, I am all done and going to clean up/tidy up and have a beer when I get home.
Chuck
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