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0 gauge wire making my truck die


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jonathancullen 
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Posted: March 01, 2007 at 6:47 AM / IP Logged  
if your truck would start then you could disconnect the battery and it should still run off of the alternator. what kind of dying are we talking about with your truck? is it slowly loosing rpms until it shuts off or does it just die? have you upgraded your big 3 yet? i had a wire melt on me in an older truck becaues i put a system in it and it have very small wire running from the alternator and battery. how many volts is your running at on idle, read the battery before and after it dies/or you turn it off.
two 12" cadence TXW-12S, cadence TXA-3002 amplifier, 1990 toyota celica system 10 speakers
kicker guy 
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Joined: August 25, 2006
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Posted: March 01, 2007 at 8:37 AM / IP Logged  
If you shut off everything with your stereo and it still dies, I don't think its electrical. Sometimes when you put something in the car and it starts acting weird it doesn't mean its the thing you added... could be just bad timing. I would get it checked out at a shop.
xtremej 
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Posted: March 01, 2007 at 11:00 AM / IP Logged  
If it is die-ing without the stereo on, your truck has lost its memory of were to idle as previuosly said. If it does not re learn after several starts and driving, you may have a more seriuos issue. I would try disconnecting the battery for 10-12 min, re-connect and seehow this works. I spoke with a chrysler tech and this is supposed to be  a driveway fix for what you are describing. If this does not work I would take it in and get it fixed. Jeeps do the same thing you are describing after disconnecting that battery. good luck and post your outcome
master5 
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Posted: March 01, 2007 at 1:25 PM / IP Logged  

Yea it doesn't seem logical that simply connecting a 0ga wire to the battery would effect the remote start or the way the car runs..remember..it is not wire that draws current....it is what you connect to it..the wire is simply a vessel for the electron flow. As far as dimming of course no suggestions in this case will do any good until you upgrade the big 3.

It seems to me as others have stated there is something else going on so try the reset/relearn. If that doesn't work it may be best to bring it in for service before proceeding any further..the RS problem should be an easy fix but the other problems with the vehicle dying require attention first.

Also note that as far as I have been told newer vehicles with PCM's will not run off the alternator alone when you disconnect the battery, only older cars could do that.

Best of luck and keep us posted.

whiteram423 
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Posted: March 01, 2007 at 2:59 PM / IP Logged  
ok today ive worked on it for a while. i drove 30 mins to see a audio shop and they said that everything was wired up right. The system was ok and the alarm was ok. i wired everything up like it was suppost to be i understand the dimming of the lights. i accepted that fact that they would. so today i unhooked the stereo and the alarm to see if the problem was consistent. and it is still doing this. i also took it to 2 local mechanical shops to see what was the problem and they said they didnt know. The battery is in good shape and the alternator is putting out 14.5 v at 2000 rpm which my understanding is what it is suppost to.   the battery is hold 12.5v which its suppost to i think. im really stomped by this and a little annoyed because i have spent about 300 dollars on someone to tell me that i have a problem and they dont know what it is. (why hell i knew that before i came in)
whiteram423 
Member - Posts: 16
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Posted: March 01, 2007 at 3:01 PM / IP Logged  
when it dies its like it goes from 1000 rpm stopped in drive to putting it into park and it drops down to 500 rpm and trys to go back up but instead it dies and its very consistent and does it every time i drive it then stop and put it in park.
DYohn 
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Posted: March 01, 2007 at 3:59 PM / IP Logged  
Sounds to me like you may have an ECU problem.
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master5 
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Posted: March 01, 2007 at 4:18 PM / IP Logged  

Also could be a throttle position sensor (TPS) or a zillion other possibilities...we could guess all day..but if you paid someone 300 bucks and they can't figure it out you got rooked. An easy way to determine if it's the ECU is to substitue a known working one (plugs right in) and see if the problem subsides..also the test equipment that all mechanics should have can tell by hooking up to the diagnostics plug as well.

I can't say if anything you may have done caused this...but regardless we know it is now unrelated since it does it with everything disconnected. The vehicle needs to be checked out by someone that understands how ECM equipped vehicles operate.

Sorry, wish I could help more.

gms81 
Member - Posts: 47
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Joined: February 17, 2007
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Posted: March 01, 2007 at 5:36 PM / IP Logged  
Is the check engine light on? If so then check to see if you yanked on any wires while you were hooking things up, a disconnected sensor will really screw with you. Pull your spark plugs and check them out to see if they are ok or if they are wearing out, although this is not likely to be the cause at all, just something to check. I have done quite a bit of weekend warrior mechanic work, I will help you as much as I can. Go to the nearest auto parts store and pick up the shop manual on your truck, you will need this to test your sensors.
whiteram423 
Member - Posts: 16
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Joined: February 19, 2006
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Posted: March 01, 2007 at 8:06 PM / IP Logged  
my check engine light is not on. someone said something about a idler control valve or something like that. does anyone know about that.
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