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Momentary button and fog lamps.


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jrilla 
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Posted: February 28, 2003 at 8:27 AM / IP Logged  
http:///.com/dll?ViewItem&item=3009809642&category=1498
J Rilla
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pipes 
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Posted: February 28, 2003 at 10:50 AM / IP Logged  
That would be great but I don't trust ebay pruchases. And I live in Canada so any other stores I could try.
jrilla 
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Posted: February 28, 2003 at 12:06 PM / IP Logged  
the guy selling this is a guy that spends a lot of time on this website. Where does this fear of ebay come from? it isnt like you are betting the house on it. You can get one for 20 or 30 bucks from an online store if you are not interested in saving money on ebay.
J Rilla
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MCubed45 
Copper - Posts: 65
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Joined: February 27, 2003
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Posted: March 01, 2003 at 4:10 AM / IP Logged  

hey guys, i'm new here but this diagram by go2pac i found in another thread seems to be the most effective.   only 4 relays and 1 diode.  you don't count that other one in the top right b/c that's more for having a secondary means of activating the device.  just substitue your lights for the radio.  the other application (which i am using this setup for) is to use a single channel on a remote to control a motor in two directions (windows, mirrors, seats... those seem to be the ones i found people asking about).  i will be controlling my power widows.  most alarm shops will tell you that you need two channels if you want to be able to move in two directions.  this allows you to do it with one.

essentially in the initial state you have no output.  when a signal is sent you have a positive 12v output which remains even if the signal is kept constant.  in pipes case this is the equivalent of holding the button down.  then when released it continues to send a +12v signal.  the next time the signal is sent (button held down) there is no ouput immediately and there continues to be no output while the signal is present and after the signal has ceased.  this returns the relays to their initial state.  this does exactly what pipes wanted and does not require an extremely brief signal.  in my case it allows me to press and hold the button on my remote as long as i want the windows to move down.  they will then stop when i release the button.  the next time i press and hold the buttonn as long as i want them to move up.  and so on and so on.  in my case i would also use an additional relay hooked up as follows: 86 output from 'latching relay'. 85 ground. 30 (-) input from alarm channel.  87 output to 'down' window relay. 87a output to 'up' window relay.  the 'up' and 'down' widow relays are used for sending current in different directions to the window motors (one direction makes the windows go up, the other goes down). 

anyways, hope that helped.  i have not built this latching relay yet but i have carefully gone over the schematic and it does not have the problem of alternating between states when a continuous signal is sent.  special thanks to go2pac for the diagram!  it's posted in several threads i believe... 

http://www.go2pac.com/misc/miscdiagrams/latchrelay.pdf

MCubed45 
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Posted: March 01, 2003 at 4:16 AM / IP Logged  

here, thought it'd be easier to post the pic instead of just the pdf.

go2pac, you kick ass!   haha idk how many people would tell you it's not possible to use a single channel to control windows i two directions.  can't wait to hook mine up!  :)

http://www.go2pac.com/misc/miscdiagrams/latchrelay.gif

jrilla 
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Posted: March 01, 2003 at 10:08 AM / IP Logged  
Yeah that is a pretty slick setup. Worked like a charm when I bench tested it. I only neede one diode for it to work though.
J Rilla
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MCubed45 
Copper - Posts: 65
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Posted: March 01, 2003 at 10:59 AM / IP Logged  
yea you only need the diode in the center bottom if you're using the (-)doorlock input (or any other source) as a bypass to automatically turn off the device. otherwise sending a signal through the (-) 2nd channel lead when the device is on would trigger the doorlock at the same time. the diode in the top right would only be used if you were using the relay in the top right in conjunction with a second SPST switch.
the12volt 
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Joined: March 07, 2002
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: March 01, 2003 at 1:26 PM / IP Logged  

I played with mine and came up with what appears to be the same basic configuration as go2pac supplied. Yes, only one diode is needed to prevent the latch from re-engaging. The other one shown in my diagram isn't needed, but is used to prevent the potential voltage spike that may occur when the coil field collapses and could/should be added to each of the other relays shown without them. The output from the switch can stay on for as long as you like without any chance of the relays chattering back and forth. However, it's still quicker, cheeper, and easier to use a latching relay and one SPDT relay ;) BTW, it's been added to the special applications page for future reference.

Momentary button and fog lamps.  - Page 4 -- posted image.

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the12volt 
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Posted: March 01, 2003 at 2:06 PM / IP Logged  

To make it work without a diode at all, simply remove the diode shown on the purple wire and connect terminal 87a (where the purple wire is connected on the first relay) to terminal 85 of the additional relay, connect terminal 86 of the additional relay to ground, connect terminal 87 of the additional relay to a fused 12V+ and connect terminal 30 of the additional relay to terminal 85 of the second to last relay and terminal 87 of the last relay.

Momentary button and fog lamps.  - Page 4 -- posted image. 

Momentary button and fog lamps.  - Page 4 -- posted image. the12volt • Support the12volt.com
MCubed45 
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Joined: February 27, 2003
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Posted: March 03, 2003 at 9:43 AM / IP Logged  
[QUOTE=the12volt]

However, it's still quicker, cheeper, and easier to use a latching relay and one SPDT relay ;)

hey 12volt, about how much does a latching relay run and from where?  just wonderin b/c radioshack didn't have any..  also would using digital logic come out any cheaper?  i actually asked one've my EE professor's about which's the simplest/easiest way to do this and he's supposed to get back to me

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