sound deadener, dynamat

Hi all,

Been awhile since I posted but now that I am off restriction I am back again seeking advice, opinions and thoughts. Restriction was I could only play with the toys I had for awhile so I was okay with dealing with what I had to do with them. (Restriction came from when the wife found the receipts for the morel low profile speakers) man, she was tweaked but wow do they add what I needed to hear.

Let’s talk sound deadening. If you had a grand and really did not want to go much over that but need to kill the rattles and road noise in say for example,, not to be tooo specific but a Shiny Black 2002 Lincoln LSE with ground effects (lol) . You wouldn’t think a car along that line would rattle but it does, you wouldn’t think the road noise would be as loud, but with low profile tires and the fantastic road conditions of say,, TX, La, Miss, Ala, Fla gulf coast,,, it does.

I also got a tone generator program which I played on my laptop with a PCMCIA Creative Audigy Z2S sound card, hooked to the Eclipse AVX5000 head unit in the car and of course the low freqs really pin pointed the gross sounds we all have nightmares about. My jaw dropped, my heart pounded, I think I almost broke out in a sweat, and my respect for high end ford went right into the toilet. Yes you are right it is an “older” car now but it is some-ones baby, and she lets me play with it (as long as I ask real nice) she is however a little concerned of my mental state. I think I have reached the 20k point with the system and more is still to come.

So back to the point of this lil story,, I need some anti rattle, anti vibration, anti road noise, killer sound deadener stuff. Any recommendations? I don’t care if it is paint on, spray on, or stick on, I cannot do spot welds because of the paint. There is dynamatt extreme of which I already have some but not enough of (series) Fat Matt, secondskin, and I am sure the list goes on and on. I am ready to rip out the seats ,again, pull up the carpet, again, and pop the trunk, again, since the amps are on a tray in the trunk (as in “funk in the trunk” http://www.cardomain.com/ride/822243/3 the main hook up is almost modular.

I live in the south so there is a high temp problem so the material containing the asphalt I think I had better be very careful about, (Guys if I get tar balls on her carpet she is going to flat out string me up) she’s still having problems with the smell of the fiberglass mods I had to do for the sub box, it did do wonders for the hit of the JL 10w6’s pushed by the JL 1k/1, still tweaking that too by the way.

Don’t care about the cute little sticker stuff that comes with stuff cause I don’t want the entire town to know what I got wrapped up in the car. The kids that pull up next to me with their rattle rattle little boom boom (gys tht crp is NOT cool) deserve the crystal clear ear blast they get from an old fart they never would have expected it from, LOL

Hey,,, Forbidden, really hope to hear from you on this, and thks again for the avx/dcu info.

Everyone I've ever talked to about the spray stuff tells me things like "its really messy and didn't do much" or some such negative comment.  But, I've never used it either.  I have had however, *excellent* results from those little $4 cans of "Great Stuff" ... that expanding foam sealent you get at Home Depot.  Obviously it wouldn't line sheet metal per se, but spraying into little pockets of sheet metal.. like the door trunk lid.. has gotten me some pretty impressive results for a $4 part.

There has been a proliferation of "me too" parts that have surfaced in the face of Dynamat's exceptional products and success... here I would probably tell ya to go with the original... Dynamat Extream.  $300 would get ya two cases.... plenty for an entire trunk and a couple of doors.  Even in a car as large as a Lincoln..

The link I included in my post is of a system I have copied from, but with minor changes, such as: cooling fans located under each amp, with air gap under each for flow, powered by remote 12v,  trimed the corners so it looks kinda like the superman symbol border and allows the tray to sit lower, than the original tray shown in photos, instead of caps between the amps, I loaded yet another amp there,, (JL 300/4 for the highs) 450 for the mids, (3 sets-Focal K2P) yea I went active, and 1000/1 for  2 10w6-v2's, in a bigger 3/4 MDF and fiberglass made by me box, SEALED, no big frame required for lifting tray, still need to do the lifts but,,, maybe not. ((NO-ONE goes into that area except me,, ever,,,)) as I welded a support bracket inside the spare tire well, and yea I can pull the spare if needed, big three upgrade (of course) 200 amp alt (of course), yellow top,  avx5000 with dcu105, center speaker is clarion 1/2 din flush mounted under head unit, looks like it grew there. The biggest hurdle for the trunk was getting the 450/4 and 1000/1 positioned for adding the 300/4 with out crowding the sub box. So the one that is pictured was built by someone else, for someone else.

I agree totally Mine may not be called original but,, I DID IT  maybe even better.

I called the guys that did the original and was going to have them do mine even though it meant a 18 hour drive and loss of my car for a good while,,, but nooo,, they decided to be rather un-friendly and a bit arogant. Mine is smaller better ventalated and and the corners mate,,lol. no ugly metal two bit straps. (Full blown cabinet shop on my property)

So back to the sound deadener,,,,, I know 1k isn't much but,,,, I don't want to be on restriction again.

Wife wants to know when it will be done,,,, lol ,,, ,,,,,Is that even possible??????

I would compare this http://www.raamaudio.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?p=pr to what you have on hand and then go from there. It is your car and your gear and half the fun of doing this stuff is checking things out. I put regular home padding in my car when I was a kid and it was fine,,, for awhile,,,,,, at the time I basically lived at the beach,, so ,,, ever open a car door and smell fish?????????????????