validity output for windows

With the 556u I recommed running the wire in series.  That means you would cut the ring and cut one of the immobilizer wires(2 small thin wires coming from the key cylinder) and connect it.  Follow the directions for European cars in the manual that comes with the 556u and it will work.  As for the key you can go to the dealer and get a valet key(a plastic key with the chip on it).

Do you think the door trigger is wired to the domelight timer somehow?

I opened the driver door when the alarm was armed and the shock sensor was unplugged and it did trigger the alarm.  When I armed the alarm right after I closed all the doors, the lcd displayed an open door.  I turned the ignition on to reset the trigger code and it still displayed the open door when I armed the alarm.  Will it bypass zone 3 if it displays an open door when I arm the alarm?

I'm pretty sure that I connected the door trigger to the wire specified in the alarm vehicle wireing.  I'm going to check the voltage from that wire and I'm going to make sure all door are closed when I try it tonight.

My brother ended up not wanting the windows to open and close automatically since the sunroof always gets stuck when he opens it.  He didn't even know that you could close all the windows when locking the car with the key and holding it for a few seconds. 

I'll try connecting the door trigger to the light you mentioned since the door trigger is still doing the same thing.  The wire it is now connected to is a positive door trigger.  Could I connect the negative door trigger to the light so I won't need a relay? I would still disconnect the positive door trigger I now have connected.

I did use the plastic spare key and it starts flawlessly.  My brother didn't even know I was going to put remote start on his car.  I installed it all for $400, including parts.  It came with a mercury tilt sensor but it looks like it would give false alarms if he parks on a slope.